1800s Early Tattersall’s Horse Auctions, London, U.K.. Top sporting venue for Regency Life in London. ‘A mixture of persons of nearly all ranks’. By Pierce Egan. Via Wikimedia Commons (PD-ART)
In Jane Austen’s and Bridgerton times, or the Regency Era, horse riding was a vital mode of transport and Tattersall’s was the best place to buy and sell horses. Tattersall’s was established in 1773 near Hyde Park Corner for the sale by auction of horses, carriages, hounds and harnesses. Sales during the winter months were every Monday and Thursday, and on Mondays only during the spring and summer. On the mornings when there was no sale, Tattersall’s was a meeting place for fashionable sporting gentlemen.
Pierce Egan’s Description of Tattersall’s
A masquerade could scarcely exhibit more motley groups than the attendants of this place of fashionable resort. There were Peers, Baronets, Members of Parliament, Turf gentlemen and Turf-servants, Jockies, Grooms, Horse-dealers, Gamblers, &c. There you might see the oldest and some of the best blood in England, disguised like coachmen.
From: 1820 Sporting Anecdotes by Pierce Egan via Google Books (PD-150)
I love these snippets from Captain Gronow’s Recollections 1864. Even though they were written after the Regency, they give us fun bits of information about Almack’s Assembly Rooms, the Prince Regent or later King George IV.
“Good society at the period to which I refer was, to use a familiar expression, wonderfully “select.” At the present time one can hardly conceive the importance which was attached to getting admission to Almack’s, the seventh heaven of the fashionable world. Of the three hundred officers of the Foot Guards, not more than half a dozen were honoured with vouchers of admission to this exclusive temple of the beau monde; the gates of which were guarded by lady patronesses, whose smiles or frowns consigned men and women to happiness or despair. These lady patronesses were the Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, and Sefton, Mrs Drummond Burrell, now Lady Willoughby, the Princess Esterhazy, and the Countess Lieven.
Almack’s: Exclusive temple of the beau monde. The gates of which were guarded by the lady patronesses,The Ladies Castlereagh, Jersey, Cowper, Sefton, Willoughby, Princess Esterhazy, and Countess Lieven.
From Captain Gronow’s Recollections 1864.
The most popular amongst these grandes dames was unquestionably Lady Cowper, now Lady Palmerston. Lady Jersey’s bearing, on the contrary, was that of a theatrical tragedy queen; and whilst attempting the sublime, she frequently made herself simply ridiculous, being inconceivably rude, and in her manner often ill-bred. Lady Sefton was kind and amiable, Madame de Lieven haughty and exclusive, Princess Esterhazy was a hon enfant, Lady Castlereagh and Mrs Burrell de tres grandes dames.
Many diplomatic arts, much finesse, and a host of intrigues, were set in motion to get an invitation to Almack’s. Very often persons whose rank and fortunes entitled them to the entree anywhere, were excluded by the cliqueism of the lady patronesses; for the female government of Almack’s was a pure despotism, and subject to all the caprices of despotic rule: it is needless to add that, like every other despotism, it was not innocent of abuses.
Almack’s
The fair ladies who ruled supreme over this little dancing and gossiping world, issued a solemn proclamation that no gentleman should appear at the assemblies without being dressed in knee-breeches, white cravat, and chapeau bras.
From Captain Gronow’s Recollections 1864.
1815 The First Quadrille at Almack’s Assembly Rooms, London. Left to Right: Marquis of Worcester, Lady Jersey, Clanronald MacDonald and Lady Worcester. “It was not until 1815 that Lady Jersey introduced from Paris the favourite quadrille, which has so long remained popular. I recollect the persons who formed the very first quadrille that was ever danced at Almack’s: they were Lady Jersey, Lady Harriett Butler, Lady Susan Ryde, and Miss Montgomery; the men being the Count St Aldegonde, Mr Montgomery, Mr Montague, and Charles Standish.” From The Reminiscences of Captain Gronow 1810-1860. 1811-1820 Snippets of Regency Life By Captain Gronow. #RegencyEra #Almack's #PrinceRegent https://books2read.com/suziloveROver Share on XRL_1_D2D_Regency Overview RetailerLinks
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1818 ‘The Stamford Dandy or A Modern Peeping Tom’. Lord Stamford rides past a row of houses looking through his glass at a woman who stands at an open first-floor window. Other women watch him from the two other windows. Dressed as a dandy with red tailcoat, high white collar and cravat, black top hat and wearing loose white trousers. Artist not known. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
1815 Man’s Double Breasted Navy Wool Tailcoat As Worn By the Men In the Bridgerton and Jane Austen Families.
This navy double breasted wool tailcoat has M-notched lapels, kite-shaped rear seaming, and black silk covered buttons. The sleeves are gathered at the shoulders and there is a high collar.
Quilting has been added to the inside chest and lower neck areas and brown velvet has been added to line the cuffs. The pockets are concealed in the tails and have been lined with brown chintz. via Kerry Taylor Auctions. kerrytaylorauctions.com
1819 Typical Gentleman’s Outfit, French. The type of outfit worn by Jane Austen’s male family and friends. Brown cutaway coat with extra long tails, white trousers, high white cravat, heeled black boots with spurs, gloves, black top hat and a cane. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Trousers: The word Trouser came into usage in the late 1600’s, so we’ve had trousers around for a long time. But at first, they were mostly for lower classes. Revolutionary France started a trend for sans-culottes, which meant trousers or pantaloons instead of culottes, or knee breeches, which were associated with the aristocracy. The styles of the revolution moved across to England and were taken up by those who either sided with revolutionary ideals or who took them up as part of a protest against the establishment set. Early on, trousers were generally a bit looser than pantaloons or breeches and ended at the ankles, often with side slits to get the foot through or straps under the foot straps to keep the trousers in place.
George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (June 7th 1778 – March 30th 1840) Arbiter of men’s fashion and friend of the Prince Regent, the future King George IV. Established mode of dress for men that rejected overly ornate fashions for understated but perfectly fitted and tailored clothing. Look based on dark coats, full-length trousers rather than knee breeches and stockings, with immaculate shirt linen and an elaborately knotted cravat. 1855 Engraving of Beau Brummell from an article in Harper’s New Monthly Magazine.
1823 Couple In Walking Dress, French, as worn in Europe and England in the Regency Era. Redingote, or Coat, with matching hat, neck frill of Gros de Nice lace. Gentleman in tailcoat, short length brown trousers, yellow vest, high white cravat, top hat and black shoes. via Modes Françaises L’Indiscret, France.
Weird Historical Pants for Men. No wonder men needed valets! It wasn’t just women struggling into tight fitting clothing!
And no wonder it took both sexes so long to dress every day, often changing clothes four or five times a day!
Early on were Breeches – Short, close-fitting trousers that fastened just below the knees or above the ankles, with a horizontal front flap called the ‘fall’ and were worn with stockings. Boys of 3 – 6 years stopped wearing loose dress-type children’s garments and went into short pants instead, and were considered ‘breeched. In Regency times, breeches were worn tighter to show off a manly physique.
Then of course we had Pantaloons
By the late 1810s and beyond, these became popular and eventually they evolved into full length trousers. Originally pantaloons were made to suit shorter Hessian boots that fell below the typical knee-breech level and they were worn very form-fitting.
Buckskins – Fashionable trousers made from deer skin also showed off every curve of the man’s figure. How could ladies not want to peek? Oooh, what a display of fine, manly figure!! Swoon!
And so to more modern Trousers – The word Trouser came into usage in the late 1600?s, so we’ve had trousers around for a long time. But at first, they were mostly for lower classes. Revolutionary France started a trend for sans-culottes, which meant trousers or pantaloons instead of culottes, or knee breeches, which were associated with the aristocracy.
The styles of the revolution moved across to England and were taken up by those who either sided with revolutionary ideals or who took them up as part of a protest against the establishment set.
Early trousers looked strange because they were generally a bit looser than pantaloons or breeches, and ended at the ankles with slits on the side for foot access. They often needed under-the-foot straps to fix them in place.
Now here’s a couple of insider tips from a gentleman’s valet for you to remember –
– False calves can be created by padding so that a master’s calves fill out his stockings and make him look more muscular, especially when he is wearing knee-breeches. Every woman’s dream!
– For rotund gentlemen, tightly pulled corsets help keep the paunch to a minimum and enhance his figure.
– To keep trousers in place and prevent disgrace, braces( suspenders) can be worn under vests.
Even in cases of his master’s over-imbibing, or just plain clumsiness, a valet can ensure his lordship remains correctly clothes at all times when representing the household in public by taking a few early precautions.
Imagine the poor valet’s work if – a gentleman rode before breakfast – changed to join the family– spent the morning boxing with friends in looser attire – changed for lunch at his club with peers – changed for afternoon calls or a drive in the park with the women- changed for dinner with friends – changed into evening dress for a formal ball- arrived home just before daylight to change into his banyan( robe) to smoke his cheroot before bed – then rose 3 hours later expecting his clothes laid out so he could do it all over again.!!
No, I seriously do not want to go back in time and become either a lady’s maid or a gentleman’s valet
– although, if I had the choice…
Hmmmm….being in a gentleman’s bedroom…. does hold a certain appeal.
Suzi Love
1775-1825 ca. Black Silk Breeches, American or European. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. metmuseum.org1806 Young French Gentleman. Short Brown Castorine Coat Over Blue Tailcoat, White Cashmere breeches, yellow gloves, black top Hat. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1804-1814 ca. Collage View. Breeches, French. Cream silk and linen. Buttoned waist, drop down front flap, or fall, extra fullness in the back for ease of movement, ties at the knees to keep in place. via Suzi Love ~ suzilove.com & Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. metmuseum.org1812-1813 ca. A man with a hat shaped as a balloon, green coat, white breeches, colored cravat. Hand-colored etching. 1812-1813 Le Chapeau en Ballon Series: Le Bon Genre Plate 51. Via British Museum, London, UK. 1807-1817 ca. Man’s Leather Breeches, American. Drop front buttoned flap at the waist, a drawstring at the back waist to adjust waist size, and drawstrings and buttons at the calves to keep the breeches secure when worn with high boots. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org 1807 Pale Blue Tailcoat, French. White frilled shirt with extra high collar and cravat, vest, white knee breeches, white stockings, black shoes, gloves, bicorn hat and a curly hairstyle. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. 1800 Outfit Of A Young Man, French. Grey cutaway coat, red vest or waistcoat, high white cravat, yellow breeches with red fob at waist, yellow gloves, black boots with tassels, hat and walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1805 ca. Collage Leather Breeches, French. Buttoned and adjustable waist, back waist gusset for ease of movement, front fall flap, two tone fitted cuffs on legs with many buttons to fasten and hold in place on the legs. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org 1790 British Consul’s Tan Leather Pants, Boston. Tan buckskin, fall front, brass and self covered buttons, breeches have leather ties at waist and at leg hems. via Augusta Auction 1806 Gentleman’s Daily Outfit, French. Bottle green tailcoat, knee breeches, snowy white cravat, white stockings, flat black shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1807 Gentleman’s Half Dress, French. Green cutaway tailcoat, white vest, white frilled shirt with very high white cravat, white breeches with red fob at waist, white stockings, black shoes, black top hat and carrying a cane. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Weird Historical Pants for Men. #regencyera ##regencyfashion #breeches https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819 Share on X https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
Regency Life Series: Images, information, funny anecdotes give overview of Jane Austen’s and Bridgerton times. #bridgerton #RegencyEra #JaneAusten #BritishHistory https://books2read.com/suziloveROver
Are you a Bridgerton fan? Love Jane Austen? Love history? Take a look at a Young Gentleman’s Day in early 1800s. Young Gentleman’s Day Regency Life Series Books 2 by Suzi Love. Easy to read books on what a young gentleman did, wore, and lived during the early 1800s, or the Regency Era when King George 3rd was mad and his son, Prince George, was the Regent in Britain. #Regency #JaneAusten #amwriting books2read.com/suziloveYGD
