From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
Scenting Scandal Book 2 Scandalous Siblings Series By Suzi Love. Lady Laura Jamison uses her extraordinary olfactory senses to sniff out her perfect match, but after she evades an assassin’s bullets, twice, she is forced to accept the protection of their family friend, and her nemesis, Richard St. Martin, the Earl of Winchester.
Busks shaped and reinforced the centre front of stays, or corsets. They were made from whalebone, wood, and bone, and were often inscribed with names, dates, and symbols of love because they were positioned close to the heart. The corsets worn in Jane Austen’s later years and by women in Bridgerton times often had busks to stiffen the corset and support the breasts.
1755 Wooden Busk For Stays, English. Flat piece of wood with design scratched or picked out, and accented with red stain. Design comprises of circles, stylized geometric stars, heart motifs, and the initials and date ‘EB 1755’. Indistinct inscription on the back, scratched into the surface of the wood with three lines of script.1800-1840 ca. Scrimshaw Corset Busk, American. Designs are of a ship and the places the sailor visited. Sailors made these as gifts to be worn close to the heart by their loved ones. Dimensions (inches) 12.5 (L) , 1.3 (W). Dimensions (centimeters). 31.7 (L) , 3.3 (W) via Winterthur Museum Collection.19th Century. Scrimshaw Baleen Corset Busks, American. The first with figure inscribed Annabelle, ship, whale, and verse On the off shore grounds I think of thee, so I’ll catch my whales and leave the sea; the second inscribed Mary and 1836 12 3/8in. high the longest. via Christie’s Auction Rooms. 1833 August. Corset Busk of carved whalebone. Face carvings, house, geometric circle, potted plant, sailing ship, American flag. Joseph Bradford. Carvings, plant, house, anchor, sea birds over ship, tree. Whale skeletal bone, inscribed with knife and using black pigment. Length: 13 1/8″ 33.4 cm; Width: 1 9/16″ 3.9 cm; Thickness: 1/8″ 3 mm.Busks shaped and reinforced front of corsets. Made from whalebone, wood and bone. Often inscribed with names, dates and symbols of love because they were positioned close to the heart. Via Hereford Museum. 1771 Wooden Corset Busk, American. Carved Maple wood. Via Winterthur Museum. 19th Century Early. Corset Busk of Double-Sided Carved Wood. Honey colored wood, probably maple, carved on both sides. Two trees of life, hex symbol design, two entwined hearts, pinwheels, and growing plant. Back has delicate scrimshaw-look design of seashore town, chapel, homes, lighthouse and ships, horizontal rather than front vertical. Measures: 13.75″ x 1.5″. via Antique Dress.18th Century Wooden Busk for Stays, European. Via metmuseum.org18th Century Late – 19th Early Carved Maple Wood Busk, American. Spirals top & bottom, two hearts meet at center, “PC” carved on reverse. Worn by member of Robbins family, inherited by Ellen A. Stone. Via Fine Arts Museum Of Boston, USA.
1840 Group In An Outdoor Setting, French. Two men in top hats. Modes de Longchamps’. Men’s outfits, a woman’s riding habit and a small boy, all tailored by Robin of 21 Rue Saint Marc, Paris. via Le Bon Ton. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.
Covent Garden is within the London boroughs of Westminster and Camden, and the parliamentary constituencies of Cities of London and Westminster and Holborn and St Pancras. The district is divided by the main thoroughfare of Long Acre, north of which is given over to independent shops centred on Neal’s Yard and Seven Dials, while the south contains the central square with its street performers and most of the elegant buildings, theatres and entertainment facilities, including the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, and the London Transport Museum.
In 1552, the land was seized by Henry VIII and granted to the Earls of Bedford. The 4th Earl commissioned Inigo Jones to build fine houses to attract wealthy tenants. It was the first modern square in London, with Italian arcades and a flat, open space or piazza with low railings. This layout was copied in other new estates in London.
1555 John Russell, 1st Earl Of Bedford. By a follower of John Bettes. Given land of Covent Garden by Herny VIII after the dissolution of the Monasteries.1650 The piazza of Covent Garden about 1650, as engraved by Wenceslaus Hollar. Courtesy University of Toronto.1721-1789 ca. St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, London, U.K. From between two arches of the plaza. Watercolor with grey wash. By Thomas Sandy. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org1800s Early Covent Garden Market, London, U.K.
In 1654, an open-air fruit and vegetable market grew on the south side of the fashionable square but over time the market and the surrounding area fell into disrepute. Taverns, theatres, coffee-houses and brothels opened up, the gentry moved away, and rakes, wits and playwrights moved in.
By the 18th century Covent Garden had become a well-known red-light district, attracting notable prostitutes such as Betty Careless and Jane Douglas. Descriptions of the prostitutes and where to find them were provided by Harris’s List of Covent Garden Ladies, the “essential guide and accessory for any serious gentleman of pleasure”.
Covent Garden’s market was always disorderly, the buildings in bad shape, and overcrowded with stalls, donkeys, carts, and peddlers. The small number of passageways into the piazza were small and with bottle necks of carts moving goods and market sellers fighting for right of way. The markets supplied fruits and vegetables, mostly homegrown but with imported goods increasing. Many sellers missed paying tolls for selling in the piazza or refused to pay them so the owner, the Earl of Bedford, took many people to court for not paying tolls. He realized the markets were in such poor condition that he couldn’t charge sellers until he improved them. In 1830, a new market hall was built with sections dividing the kind of goods sold which did improve things, but the markets remained chaotic. By 1890, people were again complaining about the narrow streets and congestion.
Covent Garden’s flower girls attracted attention by shouting:
“Two bundles a penny, primroses!”
“Sweet violets, penny a bunch!”
In 1851, Henry Mayhew wrote London Labour and the London Poor describing two types of flower girl. The young girls, or waifs, sold flowers to feed the family. The other type of flower girl stayed out late, doubled as prostitutes, and had bad reputations.
In 1913, Herbrand Russell, 11th Duke of Bedford agreed to sell the Covent Garden Estate for £2 million to the MP and land speculator Harry Mallaby-Deeley, who sold his option in 1918 to the Beecham family for £250,000.
1809 View Of the New Covent Garden Theatre, London. From Hart Street, showing the King’s entrance. Watercolor drawn by James Winston. via British Museum. 1811 Bird’s Eye View of Covent Garden Market, London, UK. Main fruit, flower and vegetable market in London in early 19th century. Began here in 1656 with few temporary stalls in back garden of home of Earl of Bedford. Charles II granted market lease and in 1678 bought by Adam Piggot and others who built permanent stalls. By 1811, smelly, dirty, and overcrowded. Engraver J. Bluck. After Augustus Charles Pugin and Thomas Rowlandson published by Ackermann. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org
1827 Covent Garden Market, Westminster, London, U.K. By Frederick James Havell.
In 1830, Charles Fowler’s neo-classical building was erected to cover the market and as the market grew, the prostitutes moved on. The Floral Hall and Charter Market were added and the Jubilee Market in 1904.
1835 Covent Garden Watch House, London, UK. Next to the church of St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden. Two story white building with ‘Watch House’ painted on its upper floor is shown with a lively street scene in the foreground. via Museum of London.
1852 J.M.W. Turner’s birthplace in Maiden Lane, Covent Garden. Brick terraced house at night with a figure in top hat walking past and two figures with a candlelight in the doorway_Watercolour with body color over graphite. Drawn by John Wykeham Archer.
In 1913,Herbrand Russell, 11th Duke of Bedford agreed to sell the Covent Garden Estate for £2 million to the MP and land speculator Harry Mallaby-Deeley, who sold his option in 1918 to the Beecham family for £250,000. By the end of the 1960s, traffic had become congested until in 1974 the market relocated to the New Covent Garden Market about three miles (5 km) south-west at Nine Elms. In 1980, the central building re-opened as a shopping centre and then became a tourist location with cafes, pubs, small shops, a craft market called the Apple Market, and another market in the Jubilee Hall.
Fashion Must Haves In Jane Austen’s Times: Reticules, Spencers, Redingotes. History Notes Series Books 3, 4, and 5.
Reticule Or Bag: Purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. Carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. in the place of pockets.
Spencer: Short jacket, cropped at the waist, worn over a dress, or gown. Delicate and regency dresses provided so little protection from the cold, so over garments were essential for warmth, modesty and good health.
Pelisse Or redingote Or Walking Dress: Coat worn over clothing of both sexes for warmth and protection from the elements.
1800-1870 ca. Stocking Purses, British. Beaded stocking purses crocheted in silk and steel beads, with steel rings with tassels and fringes. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.
Definition Miser or Long or Stocking or Ring Purses: Long, narrow, tubular shape, often wider at ends and narrow in middle, which had a short slit opening. Popular in England and France from the mid-18th century through the early 20th century.
From the Curator Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Stocking purses are also known as misers’ or wallet purses. The majority were netted, but some were knitted or crocheted, like this one. Once worked, the elongated tube was put on an expandable purse stretcher to shape it. It was then sewn up, leaving a central opening, and squeezed through a pair of rings known as sliders, which were used to secure and separate the different coins stored at either end. It could be carried in the hand, bag or pocket, or tucked over a belt. Many stocking purses were made as presents, and were thought a suitable object to give to a gentleman. Crochet is a type of needlework with an open, lacy appearance, which is formed with a hook and single length of thread making a series of loops, chains and knots. The technique developed out of ‘tambouring’, a type of embroidery, after the tambour hook began to be used to create series of loops, free from a ground fabric. This could then be used as a separate trimming, like lace, or made to form items like this purse. Crochet was thus added to the varieties of fancy needlework available to ladies, and instructions for making it can be found in manuals from the 1820s onwards.
1800-1870 ca. Stocking Purses, British. Beaded stocking purses crocheted in silk and steel beads,
with steel rings with tassels and fringes.
via Suzi Love suzilove.com
Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK.
collections.vam.ac.uk.
1800-1870 ca. Beaded Stocking Purses, British #RegencyEra #RomanticEra #Fashion
1820 Gentleman’s Cream Redingote, Or Long Overcoat, French. Long pants, or trousers, buttoned at the ankles, frilled shirt, high cravat, vest, red fob hanging at his waist. via L’Observateur des Modes, French.
From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
119th Century First Half Woman’s Embroidered Cap, French. Cotton mull with cotton embroidery, linen bobbin lace insertion, silk ribbon, round gathered crown with spoked wheel design in center surrounded by long leafed wreath, outside this a wreath of carnations, same carnations around forehead band and neck band, design embroidered with white linen thread, white taffeta ribbon run through the embroidered net casing and tied in center back. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
Definition Lappets: Two long strips of material, often lace, hanging from top of head down back or over shoulders. Sometimes extensions of a headdress and a requirement for court dress.
19th Century Second Half Woman’s Cap, French. Linen embroidered net, cotton cord, sprig embroidery at back with cord sewn to bottom edge, long wide lappets trimmed with net border embroidered with floral motifs, linen plain weave tape ties. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
19th Century First Half Woman’s Cotton Mull Embroidered Cap With Lappets, French. #JaneAusten #Hats #Regency
