1810 Gentleman’s Relaxed Daily Outfit. Green tailcoat, double-breasted white waistcoat, knotted white cravat, striped Nankin trousers with straps under the foot and red fob at the waist, holding a top hat and a walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
In the early 1800s, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and an immaculate cravat of beautiful white linen in the style of George Bryan, or Beau, Brummell. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by Jane Austen’s male family and friends.
From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
1804 Dandies In Morning and Evening Dress. By Isaac Robert Cruikshank. ‘Dandies In A Morning Dress’. Man in morning suit with hat and umbrella, woman with large hat and shawl. ‘Dandies In A Evening Dress’. Man in short evening jacket with handkerchief, woman with large feather headpiece. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
1804 Royal Mint, Stamping Room, London, U.K. As Jane Austen would have known it. From Ackermann’s Microcosm of London by A.C. Pugin and Thomas Rowlandson.
Postal. The mode of conveying the letters suggested by Mr. Palmer in 1784. By the adoption of this plan, the letters are conveyed by strong and well-guarded coaches, -each drawn by four excellent horses, which proceed with the utmost regularity between seven and eight miles an hour, stoppages, included. In allusion to their employment, they are called Mail Coaches. Formerly the mails were sent by carts or by post-boys on horseback, a mode attended with “danger and delay. The first mail coach was established to Bristol in 1784. In 1829, the principal Post-office was moved to St. Martin’s-le-Grand, with three Branch offices at Lombard-street, Charingcross, and Vere-street, Oxford-street. The receiving houses are open every day except Sunday, till five o’clock and by 1828, Omnibuses were taking postmen to their various stations every morning.
Postage of a Single Letter.
From any post-office in England or Wales, to any place not exceeding 15 miles from such office . . .4
Between 15 and 20 miles ….. 5
Between 20 and 30 mil’s … 6
Between 30 and 50 miles ….. 7
Between 50 and 80 miles ……. 8
Between 80 and 120 miles ……. 9
Between 120 and 170 miles ……. 10
Between 170 and 230 miles … 11
Between 230 and 300 miles … 12
Between 300 and 400 miles … 13
Between 400 and 500 miles … 14
And so on in proportion, the postage increasing progressively one penny for a single letter for every like excess of distance of 100 miles.
All double, treble, and other letters and packets whatever (except by the twopenny post) pay in proportion to the respective rates of single letters before specified.
Single letters to soldiers and sailors are chargeable with one penny only. Newspapers are sent free from any charge.
Foreign letters must be paid at the office where they are put in, otherwise there will be a necessity for such letters being opened, and returned for the postage.
Mails for France are made up daily
Money Orders can be sent at the cost of 8 pence per pound.
Persons in the country may avail themselves of the same arrangement to send money to London.
Regulations of the Twopenny Post-Office.
Principal post offices:
General post-office in St. Martin’s-le-Grand
Gerrard-street, Soho.
Upwards of 140 receiving houses both in town and country.
There are six collections and deliveries of letters in town daily (Sundays excepted), and there are two despatches from, and three deliveries at most places in the country, within the limits of this office.
Hours by which letters should be put into receiving houses in town :—
For Delivery in Town.
Over night, by eight o’clock, for the first delivery.
Morning, by eight o’clock, for the second delivery.
Morning, by ten o’clock, fur the third delivery.
Morning, by twelve o’clock, for the fourth delivery.
Afternoon, by two o’clock, for the fifth delivery.
Afternoon, by five o’clock, for the sixth delivery.
For Delivery in Country.
Preceding evening by five o’clock for first delivery.
Morning by eight o’clock for second delivery.
Afternoon by two o’clock for third delivery.
But letters, whether for town or country, may be put in at either of the two principal offices an hour later for each despatch, letters put in on Saturday evening arc delivered in the country on Sunday morning. The date stamp, or, if there are two, that having the latest hour, shows also the time of the day by which the letters were despatched for delivery from the principal offices. The postage of a letter from one part of the town to another, both being within the delivery of the general post, which extends three miles from the office in St. Martin’s-lc-Grand, is two-pence: and to and from parts beyond that delivery within twelve miles, three pence; and the postage of this office on each letter passing to or from the general or foreign post offices is twopence.
The twopenny postage of all letters, such as are for parts out of his majesty’s dominions excepted, may or may not be paid at putting in, at the option of the senders. No twopenny post letter must weigh more than four ounces, unless it be intended to pass or shall have passed by the general post. Every newspaper forwarded by the twopenny post is charged one penny. Cash, in gold or silver, or other articles of value, enclosed in loiters, (notes or drafts for money excepted,) to be mentioned to the office-keeper at putting in; but ,t is recommended that bank-notes, or others payable lo bearer, be cut in half, and sent at twice; the second part not to be sent till the receipt of the first is acknowledged. This office, however, is not liable to make good the loss of any property sent by post.
From: 1828 Leigh’s New Picture of London via Google Books (PD-150)
1840 Group In An Outdoor Setting, French. Two men in top hats. Modes de Longchamps’. Men’s outfits, a woman’s riding habit and a small boy, all tailored by Robin of 21 Rue Saint Marc, Paris. via Le Bon Ton. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.
Covent Garden is within the London boroughs of Westminster and Camden, and the parliamentary constituencies of Cities of London and Westminster and Holborn and St Pancras. The district is divided by the main thoroughfare of Long Acre, north of which is given over to independent shops centred on Neal’s Yard and Seven Dials, while the south contains the central square with its street performers and most of the elegant buildings, theatres and entertainment facilities, including the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane, and the London Transport Museum.
In 1552, the land was seized by Henry VIII and granted to the Earls of Bedford. The 4th Earl commissioned Inigo Jones to build fine houses to attract wealthy tenants. It was the first modern square in London, with Italian arcades and a flat, open space or piazza with low railings. This layout was copied in other new estates in London.
1555 John Russell, 1st Earl Of Bedford. By a follower of John Bettes. Given land of Covent Garden by Herny VIII after the dissolution of the Monasteries.1650 The piazza of Covent Garden about 1650, as engraved by Wenceslaus Hollar. Courtesy University of Toronto.1721-1789 ca. St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden, London, U.K. From between two arches of the plaza. Watercolor with grey wash. By Thomas Sandy. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org1800s Early Covent Garden Market, London, U.K.
In 1654, an open-air fruit and vegetable market grew on the south side of the fashionable square but over time the market and the surrounding area fell into disrepute. Taverns, theatres, coffee-houses and brothels opened up, the gentry moved away, and rakes, wits and playwrights moved in.
By the 18th century Covent Garden had become a well-known red-light district, attracting notable prostitutes such as Betty Careless and Jane Douglas. Descriptions of the prostitutes and where to find them were provided by Harris’s List of Covent Garden Ladies, the “essential guide and accessory for any serious gentleman of pleasure”.
Covent Garden’s market was always disorderly, the buildings in bad shape, and overcrowded with stalls, donkeys, carts, and peddlers. The small number of passageways into the piazza were small and with bottle necks of carts moving goods and market sellers fighting for right of way. The markets supplied fruits and vegetables, mostly homegrown but with imported goods increasing. Many sellers missed paying tolls for selling in the piazza or refused to pay them so the owner, the Earl of Bedford, took many people to court for not paying tolls. He realized the markets were in such poor condition that he couldn’t charge sellers until he improved them. In 1830, a new market hall was built with sections dividing the kind of goods sold which did improve things, but the markets remained chaotic. By 1890, people were again complaining about the narrow streets and congestion.
Covent Garden’s flower girls attracted attention by shouting:
“Two bundles a penny, primroses!”
“Sweet violets, penny a bunch!”
In 1851, Henry Mayhew wrote London Labour and the London Poor describing two types of flower girl. The young girls, or waifs, sold flowers to feed the family. The other type of flower girl stayed out late, doubled as prostitutes, and had bad reputations.
In 1913, Herbrand Russell, 11th Duke of Bedford agreed to sell the Covent Garden Estate for £2 million to the MP and land speculator Harry Mallaby-Deeley, who sold his option in 1918 to the Beecham family for £250,000.
1809 View Of the New Covent Garden Theatre, London. From Hart Street, showing the King’s entrance. Watercolor drawn by James Winston. via British Museum. 1811 Bird’s Eye View of Covent Garden Market, London, UK. Main fruit, flower and vegetable market in London in early 19th century. Began here in 1656 with few temporary stalls in back garden of home of Earl of Bedford. Charles II granted market lease and in 1678 bought by Adam Piggot and others who built permanent stalls. By 1811, smelly, dirty, and overcrowded. Engraver J. Bluck. After Augustus Charles Pugin and Thomas Rowlandson published by Ackermann. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org
1827 Covent Garden Market, Westminster, London, U.K. By Frederick James Havell.
In 1830, Charles Fowler’s neo-classical building was erected to cover the market and as the market grew, the prostitutes moved on. The Floral Hall and Charter Market were added and the Jubilee Market in 1904.
1835 Covent Garden Watch House, London, UK. Next to the church of St. Paul’s Church, Covent Garden. Two story white building with ‘Watch House’ painted on its upper floor is shown with a lively street scene in the foreground. via Museum of London.
1852 J.M.W. Turner’s birthplace in Maiden Lane, Covent Garden. Brick terraced house at night with a figure in top hat walking past and two figures with a candlelight in the doorway_Watercolour with body color over graphite. Drawn by John Wykeham Archer.
In 1913,Herbrand Russell, 11th Duke of Bedford agreed to sell the Covent Garden Estate for £2 million to the MP and land speculator Harry Mallaby-Deeley, who sold his option in 1918 to the Beecham family for £250,000. By the end of the 1960s, traffic had become congested until in 1974 the market relocated to the New Covent Garden Market about three miles (5 km) south-west at Nine Elms. In 1980, the central building re-opened as a shopping centre and then became a tourist location with cafes, pubs, small shops, a craft market called the Apple Market, and another market in the Jubilee Hall.
1818 November 6th A Dandy Cock in stays or- A new thing for the ladies.By Isaac Robert Cruikshank A dandy, much burlesqued, stands full-face, his head, which has a bird-like profile, turned to the left; his hair is brushed up at the back behind his hat to resemble the tail-feathers of a cock. He wears puffed-out breeches and top-boots with enormous spurs, and holds an umbrella. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
1818 November 6th A Dandy Cock in stays or- A new thing for the ladies.By Isaac Robert Cruikshank.A dandy, much burlesqued, stands full-face, his head, which has a bird-like profile, turned to the left; his hair is brushed up at the back behind his hat to resemble the tail-feathers of a cock. He wears puffed-out breeches and top-boots with enormous spurs, and holds an umbrella. Via Suzi Love – suzilove.com & British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
1818 November 6th Caricature: ‘A Dandy Cock In Stays’. By Isaac Robert Cruikshank. #Regency #Cartoon #London
1819 January ‘Laceing a Dandy.’ Dandy in underwear, laces of his corset pulled by two servants, left young black page, right French valet with high collar. Dandy, “Fore Gad ye wretches you’l never get my Stays tight enough go brute and call John James & Thomas, To help you take care you don’t Spoil by Breasts”. Published by: Thomas Tegg. Hand colored etching. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
19th Century Early Women’s Cotton Caps. Worn as morning caps, night caps, or under other hats. With lappets, hanging ties, or tails, which were also called ‘follow me lads’, or ‘flirtation ribbons’. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
Definition Caps: Worn as morning caps, night caps, or under other hats. Jane Austen and her family and female friends would have worn caps like these, sometimes during the morning at home, to bed to keep their long hair from becoming knotted, or under a bonnet to hold a hairstyle in place. Caps sometimes had hanging ties, or tails, were also called ‘follow me lads’, or ‘flirtation ribbons’.
Definition Lappets: Two long strips of material, often lace, hanging from top of head down back or over shoulders. Sometimes extensions of a headdress and a requirement for court dress.
19th Century Early Women’s Cotton Caps. Worn as morning caps, night caps, or under other hats. Hanging ties, or tails, also called ‘follow me lads’, or ‘flirtation ribbon’s. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
19th Century Early Women’s Cotton Caps With Hanging Tails, Or Flirtation Ribbons. #Regency #JaneAusten #Fashion