Tag Archives: England

1830-1839 ca. Black Silk Evening Slippers Made By East Of London. #RomanticEra #Shoes #BritishHistory

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1830-1839 ca. Black Evening Slippers, British. Black silk, rosette on front, straps. Made By East, Boot & Shoe Maker, Britain. via Metropolitan Museum, NYC, U.S.A.

1830s Shoes: Producing different shoes for right and left feet started around 1830 in France. In these first attempts, little paper labels on the insoles of the shoes indicated left and right. However, the shoes were still made on straight lasts with no differentiation between the left and right foot. By the end of the 19th century, producing left and right shoes had become common as shoemakers then worked with combinations of sole and vamp cuts tailored to fit either the right or the left foot. The first steps towards the mechanisation of shoemaking were taken during the Napoleonic Wars. In 1810, engineer Marc Brunel developed a machinery that could mass-produce nailed boots for the soldiers of the British Army. But after the end of the war in 1815, manual labour became cheap, and the demand for military shoes declined. The industrialization of shoemaking began around 1830.

1830-1839 ca. Evening Slippers, British. Black silk, rosette on front, straps. Made By East, Boot & Shoe Maker, Britain. via Suzi Love suzilove.com & Metropolitan Museum, NYC, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
1830-1839 ca. Black Silk Evening Slippers Made By East Of London. #RomanticEra #Shoes #BritishHistory  https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819 Share on X
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1815 Black Wool Tailcoat As Worn By the Men in the Families of Jane Austen and the Bridgertons. Bridgerton #RegencyFashion #JaneAusten #BritishHistory

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1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. As Worn By the Men in the Families of Jane Austen and the Bridgertons. #Regency #JaneAusten #Fashion #BritishHistory

Tailcoat: A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s. The men in Jane Austen’s life would have worn a black tailcoat like this for everyday wear. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819

1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 ca. Tailcoat, Probably British. Black wool, silk cotton and wood. Double-breasted, cutaway at the front waist, notched collar, straight sleeves, pleat falling from the back waist. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1815 Black Wool Tailcoat As Worn By the Men in the Families of Jane Austen and the Bridgertons. #Bridgerton #RegencyFashion #JaneAusten https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819 Share on X
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1820 Brown Evening Dress Of Figured Silk Muslin With Brown Gauze Trim. #RegencyEra #HistoricalFashion #England

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1820 Brown Evening Dress Of Figured Silk Muslin With Brown Gauze Trim. An evening dress of tobacco coloured figured silk muslin, warp float, small sprig repeat design. Shallow, round neckline, short puffed sleeves, high, empire-style waistline and long tubular skirt. Bodice has narrow cream lace trim above a band of self fabric edged with cream silk braid and brown silk taffeta piping. Bodice front has brown silk gauze joined on at side seams with 3 van dyke points down sides of centre front. Edges of points bound with silk taffeta and trimmed with ball buttons covered in brown silk floss.

Centre front panel has brown silk cord lacing through 17 handworked eyelets bordered by 2 v-shaped strips of same silk taffeta rouleaus. Self fabric waistband is trimmed with cream braid and piping, with two van dyke points either side of centre back. Bodice laced at back from neck to waistband while gauze overlay from front forms a band tucked over the waist, which extends over skirt to form a narrow peplym, also van dyke pointed and bound with taffeta. Two self fabric epaulettes attached at sleeve seams and trimmed with brown silk passmenterie tassel, at shoulder and with same braid and piping. Short sleeves overlaid with brown silk gauze ruched between rouleaux bands stitched to lining. Cuff bands piped and braided and cut into 8 van dyke points above overlay. Points are trimmed with braid, piping and silk covered ball buttons. Skirt of dress falls to the ground, trained at back, and flounce of satin striped silk gauze falling from corded seam. Bodice lined with cream cotton. Via Powerhouse Museum, Sydney, Australia. collection.maas.museum.

Passementerie: Art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, passements) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings. Styles of passementerie include the tassel, fringes, ornamental cords, galloons, pompons, rosettes, and gimps, as well as other forms. Tassels, pompons, and rosettes are point ornaments, and the others are linear ornaments.

1820 Brown Evening Dress Of Figured Silk Muslin With Brown Gauze Trim. An evening dress of tobacco coloured figured silk muslin, warp float, small sprig repeat design. Shallow, round neckline, short puffed sleeves, high, empire-style waistline and long tubular skirt. Bodice has narrow cream lace trim above a band of self fabric edged with cream silk braid and brown silk taffeta piping. Bodice front has brown silk gauze joined on at side seams with 3 van dyke points down sides of centre front. Edges of points bound with silk taffeta and trimmed with ball buttons covered in brown silk floss.
1820 Brown Evening Dress Of Figured Silk Muslin With Brown Gauze Trim. #RegencyEra #Fashion #England https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819 Share on X
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1800 ca. Bicorn, Or Two Cornered, Man’s Black Silk Hat. #JaneAusten #RegencyEra #HistoricalFashion #Hats

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1800 ca. Bicorn, Or Two Cornered, Black Silk Hat, Possibly Made In Great Britain or France. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.

Definition: Bicorn Or Bicorne: Two cornered, or pointed, hats often worn by military men because the rain would drain off either side of the hat and  away from the body. They could also be easily flattened to carry under arm.  This sort of hat would have been worn by gentlemen around the turn of the century and during Jane Austen’s writing life.

hats_1800 ca. Bicorn silk-hat, possibly-made-in-great-britain-or-france. Victoria and Albert Museum
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hats_1800 ca. Bicorn silk-hat, possibly-made-in-great-britain-or-france. Victoria and Albert Museum
1800 ca. Bicorn, Or Two Cornered, Man's Black Silk Hat. #JaneAusten #RegencyEra #Fashion #Hats https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819 Share on X
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1810-1820s ca. Woman’s Green Slippers, Possibly French But Worn in America. #Regency #Shoes #JaneAusten

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1810-1820s ca. Woman’s Green Slippers. Possibly French, worn in America. The type of shoes worn by Jane Austen and her female friends and family and by the female members of the Bridgerton family. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. mfa.org

Shoes in the early 1800s were flat or low heeled and occasionally decorated with a bow or floral embellishments and it wasn’t until the 1820s that square, rather than rounded, toes became fashionable.  Typical Regency Era women’s footwear were shoes that had low heels, slightly rounded toes, embellished with a bow and with ribbon ties for the ankles. Made of soft kid or cloth, these delicate shoes were flimsy and wore out quickly.  Slippers were often bought in multiples at a time and with no difference between left or right foot so when one slipper had a hole it was easily replaced.

1810-1820s ca. Woman's GreenSlippers. Possibly French, worn in America. via suzilove.com and Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. mfa.org
1810-1820s ca. Woman’s Green Slippers. Possibly French, worn in America. via suzilove.com and Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. mfa.org
1810-1820s ca. Woman's Green Slippers, Possibly French But Worn in America. #Bridgerton #RegencyFashion #Shoes #JaneAusten. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashion1810-1814 Share on X
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1826 ‘Cits’ Dining At The Grand House. From A Regency Gentleman’s Life. #RegencyEra #Cartoon #England

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1826 'Cits' Dining At The Grand House. From A Regency Gentleman's Life. #Regency #Cartoon #England
1826 The Cyprian’s Ball At the Argyll Rooms. A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank.
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1810 ca. Muslin Bodiced Petticoat With Sleeves, British. #RegencyFashion #JaneAusten #underclothing

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1810 ca. Muslin, or Cotton, Bodiced Petticoat With Sleeves, British.The sort of petticoat Jane Austen wore beneath her dresses, for both modesty and warmth. via Killerton House. National Trust, U.K. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk

In Jane Austen’s years of the early nineteenth century, women often wore light-weight dresses under which was worn a range of underclothing to stop gowns appearing transparent and sticking to a lady’s body. To preserve modesty, underclothing included a chemise next to the skin, then a corset, and then petticoats to give shape to a dress and to keep it away from her body.

1810 ca. Muslin, or Cotton, Bodiced Petticoat With sleeves, British. via Killerton House. National Trust, U.K. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
1810 ca. Muslin, or Cotton, Bodiced Petticoat With sleeves, British. via Killerton House. National Trust, U.K. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
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1805 Breeches, Royal Naval Uniform of Surgeon Joshua Horwood in the time of Jane Austen. #JaneAusten #RegencyEra #military #uniform

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1805 Breeches, part of the Royal Naval Uniform of surgeon Joshua Horwood , who served as surgeon’s mate in HMS ‘Prince’ at Trafalgar, and was promoted to surgeon in 1807. via Royal Museums Greenwich, London, U.K. collections.rmg.co.uk

1805 Breeches, part of the Royal Naval Uniform of surgeon Joshua Horwood , who served as surgeon's mate in HMS 'Prince' at Trafalgar, and was promoted to surgeon in 1807. via Royal Museums Greenwich, London, U.K. collections.rmg.co.uk 
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1805 Breeches, part of the Royal Naval Uniform of surgeon Joshua Horwood , who served as surgeon’s mate in HMS ‘Prince’ at Trafalgar, and was promoted to surgeon in 1807. via Royal Museums Greenwich, London, U.K. collections.rmg.co.uk 


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From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass. 

Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s. 

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1818-1831 Roller Printed Cotton Furnishing Fabrics, English. #RomanticEra #Fabric #RegencyEngland

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1818-1831 Roller Printed Cotton Furnishing Fabrics, English.

Between 1820 and 1840 textile printers began to produce designs that were based on the woven silk dress fabrics of the 1750’s. Designs showing curving trails of lace or ribbons between bouquets of flowers became as popular in the 1830s as they had been in the 18th century.

Roller Printed Cotton.

The pattern on printed cotton was made with an engraved metal roller and additional colors were built up by wooden surface roller. Roller printing on textiles was introduced in the late 18th century and at first used mainly for small-patterned dress fabrics. By the 1830s, roller printing was highly mechanized process and had largely replaced block printing for fashionable furnishings.

Materials and Making
The development of roller printing coincided with a radical transformation in the dyestuffs available for printing on cotton. Until the beginning of the 19th century printing had been based on the use of vegetable dyes. In Britain, France and Germany new chemical processes were developed and mineral colors produced that transformed the palette of colors available to the printer and made combinations such as shades of pink and orange possible.

Design and Designing
The false trails of lace and bouquets of flowers in the fabric are inspired by the patterns of woven silks from nearly a century earlier. Changing taste made this design suitable for furnishing a room in the 1830s, while the 18th-century silk that was its inspiration would have been intended for a woman’s gown.

Time
The styles considered fashionable in 1830s furnishings were widely diverse. Among the more recognisable historical references were Rococo, Elizabethan and Gothic. A design such as this seems to be relying on novelty of effect for its success.

Information via Curator of Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.u Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. 

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1808 Fashionable English Couple Dressed As In Jane Austen’s times. #RegencyFashion #JaneAusten #HistoricalFashion

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1808 Fashionable English Couple, Dressed As In Jane Austen’s times. Lady in a white dress with pointed hem decorations, fitted white hat tied under her chin with yellow ribbon, yellow shawl and pink slippers. Gentleman in formal dress of blue tailcoat, black knee breeches, white stockings, black shoes, black bicorn hat, curly hair style and sideburns and a sword. Interestingly, this is English style fashions from a French magazine. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.

1808 Fashionable English Couple. Lady in a white dress with pointed hem decorations, fitted white hat tied under her chin with yellow ribbon, yellow shawl and pink slippers. Gentleman in formal dress of blue tailcoat, black knee breeches, white stockings, black shoes, black bicorn hat, curly hair style and side burns and a sword. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
1808 Fashionable English Couple. Lady in a white dress with pointed hem decorations, fitted white hat tied under her chin with yellow ribbon, yellow shawl and pink slippers. Gentleman in formal dress of blue tailcoat, black knee breeches, white stockings, black shoes, black bicorn hat, curly hair style and side burns and a sword. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
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