1812 August. Ball Dress, English. Dress with lower waistline than normal in the Empire period, pink laced bodice, with decorative sleeves, skirt with pink hem decoration, pink hat with pretty plume, and yellow gloves. Fashion Plate via John Belle’s ‘La Belle Assemblee’, London. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashion1810-1814
1826 January Promenade Dress, English. Green walking dress with wide lace hem, zigzag white collar edge, white buttons on front vertical, large fur muff with pink lining, large hat with pink ribbons and black bows on crown. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’, London, U.K.
Definition: Promenade Dress, Walking Dress, Pelisse Or Redingote. Woman’s long, fitted overdress or coat often worn open in front to show off the dress underneath. Sometimes cut away in front. Originally made with several capes and trimmed with large buttons. French word developed from English words, riding coat. reefer. Single- or double-breasted, fitted, tailored, over-all coat usually made from sturdy fabric. In England, this sort of coat was generally called a pelisse, walking dress, carriage dress or promenade dress. In France, these coats were called a Redingote.
1811 White Dress, French. Dress with scalloped hem, pink Redingote, green paisley shawl and white hat. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress Or Coat: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. Often left open at the front to show off the dress underneath. French word developed from English words, riding coat. Jane Austen and her contemporaries wore long coats like these to keep warm when out and about, visiting, shopping etc. The thin muslin dresses worn in the early 1800s were little protection against European winters.
1811 January Evening Dresses, English. Standing Figure: French frock with half train of black imperial gauze worn over a slip of white sarsnet or satin, ornamented with a Vandyke border of white velvet or thread lace. White velvet hat ornamented with two curled ostrich feathers, with a silver or beaded band. White kid gloves and shoes. Sitting Figure: Grecian robe of silver grey crape worn over a white satin under-dress, ornamented at the hem and each side with a light and tasteful border of black bugles. Stomacher edged with black beads, corresponding with those which finish the bosom and sleeves. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of jet. Hair in waved curls on each side of the face, divided in front of the forehead with a full plait and barrel comb of jet. White satin slippers with black jet clasps or bugle rosettes. White kid gloves and a fan of silver-frosted crape. Back-ground figure: Dress of black Venetian velvet with short Circassian sleeve, gathered in a knot of white beads or pearl, bosom and stomacher to correspond, pearl necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets. Belt of white velvet with mother-of-pearl clasps. Convent veil of white cobweb net confined with a pearl crescent, à la Diana. Sandal slippers and gloves of white kid and fan of carved ivory. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository’ of Arts.
Definition Evening Dress: Minute distinctions between ball, dinner, evening and opera gowns meant different quality of fabrics and designs. A Ball Gown differed from an evening dress as expensive silk fabrics were usually worn, light or heavy, decorated with lace, embroidery or beading, with low-cut bodice, short or no sleeves, and full skirts. In the early 1800s, white cotton dresses were considered suitable for many evening events, but not for balls. And definitely not for an evening event in a palace. White dresses with white embroidery for evening were considered fashionable and exclusive as only the wealthy could afford them.
1823 Pelisse or Redingote or Walking dress, or Coat, English. Made for a wedding trousseau in 1823. Intricate decoration from rouleaux applied in floral shapes, and trimmed with wire wrapped in silk thread which stands out from the garment in loops at the ends. ‘Vandyke’ style of pointed shoulder pieces were fashionable at the time. Via Museum Of London, UK.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress Or Coat: French word developed from English words, riding coat. Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. Often left open at the front to show off the dress underneath. Sometimes cut away in front. Originally made with several capes and trimmed with large buttons. French fashion plates call these coats Redingotes and they are designed for women, men and children. English fashion plates call them a Pelisse, a walking dress, Promenade dress, or Carriage dress. books2read.com/suzilovePelisse
Definition Vandyke: Edging of v-shaped points, the name coming from the Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Vandyke, who was known for his short pointed beard.
1800 ca. Heptagonal Bag, French. Old rose moiré silk panels on steel cockade frame. Cut steel rosettes at rivets. Steel turn-key closure. White ribbon on steel rings. White silk lining. Credit: The Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
Reticule Or Bag: As the silhouette of dresses became more form fitting and fabrics lighter and more transparent, pockets could no longer be hidden in the folds of skirts or underwear. Something else was needed to hold a lady’s essentials. Small purses, like men’s money pouches, were used by women to carry money for gambling, sewing necessities, and women’s daily requirements such as combs. A bag or purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery was called a reticule, or ridicule. They came in a variety of shapes, sizes, and materials. Jane Austen and her contemporaries would have purchased or hand made reticules, or bags, for each other for gifts and carried them with them whenever they went out.
1802 Silk and Metal Dress, Spanish. Brown silk dress with very high waist, decorated bodice, zig-zag hem decoration, long straight sleeves. I can picture Jane Austen and her female friends and family wearing this sort of dress to a dinner party or musical evening. via Metropolitan Museum, NYC, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
1827 ca. Gentleman’s Dressing Box, London. Mahogany box with brass carrying handles, lid opens to velvet and leather interior with twelve engraved silver topped bottles, all with an engraving of an oak tree. Top tray lifts out to another tray of tools.
1811 January Evening Full Dress, English. Round dress of white satin, small train with pink velvet, vandyke edges, dotted with black chenille, turban cap of white satin with pearls, necklace, earrings, bracelets of gold and pearls, white kid shoes and gloves, fan of white crape and gold. Fashion Plate via John Belle’s La Belle Assemblée or, Bell’s Court and Fashionable Magazine, London.
Definition Van Dyke Points: V-shaped lace and trims named after a 17th Century Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Van Dyck, known for painting V-shaped lace collars and scalloped edges on sitters.
Definition Velvet or Velour: Silk with short, dense and smooth pile produced by pile warp raised in loops above ground weave through introduction of rods during the weaving.
1807 Two Ladies In Morning Dress, French. Left: Morning dress with short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves ruffles around collar sleeves and hem white cap carrying blue parasol. Right: Blue Fichu or neck Shawl, blue Bonnet. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes,
or Costume Parisien.
Definition Fichu: Piece of lace, muslin, or other cloth worn about the neck and cleavage to preserve a lady’s modesty. From French word meaning neckerchief.
These are the types of outfits worn by Jane Austen and contemporaries in English magazines, where French fashions were obsessively copied despite the two countries being at war for many years.
