1863 Traveler’s Chest, French. Sewing Tools, Ruby Perfume, Aide de Memoire or Notebook, etc. Inside lid with theatre curtains. via Ruby Lane Antiques. rubylane.com
1864 Silk corset, made to be worn over a chemise. Made in France or Britain. Aqua blue silk lined with linen, edged with machine-made lace, reinforced with whalebone, metal, lined with cotton twill. The front has fastenings and the back has lacings. The wearer of this corset could dress without help because the steel ‘split busk’ fastens in front. The front fastening was invented in 1829 but did not become common until the 1850s. The whalebones press into the waist to shape the hipline into an extravagant curve, to flatter and support the fashionable cage crinoline. In the 1860s women relied on voluminous skirts, in addition to corsets, to make their waists appear small.
Flossing, or embroidery, to stop bones poking through fabric, edged with machine-made lace, reinforced with whalebone, metal fasteners, V-shaped front for better fit & extra shaping. The front has fastenings and the back has lacings. There are fewer bones in the back of the corset than the front and none over the hips. Trimmed at the top edge with a narrow band of machine-made lace. Stiffened with whalebone and machine-stitched with an incised swivel latch to lock the busk fastening. Boned at the centre front, back and diagonally from the side to back and sides to front. The boning is hand-stitched into place. Metal eyelets. Lined with cotton twill. The corset reaches the top of the hips and is gored at the bust and hips.
During the 19th century, corsets were made from a variety of materials and shapes changed often. Sometimes breasts were pushed up and almost over the top and waists could be tiny and other curves were emphasized. By the end of the 19th century, corsets weren’t laced so tightly because wide crinolines created the illusion of tiny waists. There are fewer bones in the back of the corset than the front and none over the hips. From the late 1840s to the 1860s skirts were full and bell-shaped, at which point corsets were relatively short and not particularly tightly laced, since the massive skirts made all waists look proportionally small.
The corset was worn over the chemise and it moulded the figure of the wearer into the fashionable shape of the day. These shapes ranged from slender to curvaceous and everything in between during the 19th century. Like the chemise, the corset in the 19th century was made of a wider variety of materials, in this case blue silk lined with linen. It did not need to be very tightly laced, for the illusion of a small waist was created by the very wide circumference of the crinoline.
Credit : Given by the Burrows family. Museum number:T.169-1961. The donors of this corset linked it to a 1864 marriage in the family. Victoria and Albert Museum, London, U.K.
1805-1810 ca. High-Waisted White Muslin Evening Dress, Possibly Made in France. Embroidered in white cotton in French knots, with collars, border, and vertical stripe in chain stitch with a design down the front of vine tendrils and acorns. Low square neck with draw-cord, ‘stomacher’ front closing over inner lining flaps. Straight cut skirt gathers at back and fastens with tape tie. Long oval train, short sleeves with ‘vandyke’ trimming. An evening ensemble typical of the early 19th century love of Neo-classical where this high-waisted dress with short sleeves copies Greek and Roman shape and dress as seen in sculptures from the time. White muslin fabric was usually imported from India but in the case, made in Europe to imitate Indian materials. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
Definition Van Dyke Points: V-shaped lace and trims named after a 17th Century Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Van Dyck, known for painting V-shaped lace collars and scalloped edges on sitters.
Definition Empire Style: Named after the First Empire in France, by 1800 Empire dresses had a very low décolleté, or neckline and a short narrow backed bodice attached to a separate skirt. Skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a simple cotton high-waisted dress was worn most days and accessorized according to the importance of the occasion.
1804–1815 ca. Fawn Cotton Dress With Embroidery Beading, Austrian. Simple Empire style dress with A-line skirt from a high waistline and short bodice as Jane Austen and contemporaries across Europe would have worn. Fawn colored cotton with deep bead embroidered hem, embroidery on the wrists and around the wide scooped neckline. Transparent fabrics of the early were beginning to be replaced with fabrics with more weight that were less likely to tear. Plain silks in vivid colors were at first made up in the simple lines of muslin dresses but then plain gowns began to be decorated with intricate contrasting applications and beading. This dress was part of “The Fine Art of Costume” exhibition, 1954 October 15th at the Met Museum, N.Y.C. via Metropolitan Museum, NYC, U.S.A. metmuseum.org.
Empire Style Dress: Named after the First Empire in France. Empire dresses had a low neckline and skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a high-waisted dress was worn most days. Cotton, silk or taffeta were the popular fabrics.
1800 ca. Sleeveless Chemise or Nightgown of white cotton and lace. Length just below knee. Gathered back and front onto yoke of lace and gathered fabric inserts. Gathers around neck by tape in casing. ‘Blanche’ embroidered centre front. Waist up to 50 in or more. via National Trust Collections, UK. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
Definition Chemise Or Shift: Sleeveless, mid-calf length garment of white cotton or muslin was worn next to the skin under stays or corset. Called ‘Shift’ from early Georgian (1700-1750) until Late Georgian (1750-1790) to replace ‘Smock’. By 1800, name replaced by ‘Chemise’. Sometimes doubled as a nightshift, or nightrail. From around 1700, women wore a long garment, like a man’s shirt, next to their skin, day and night. ‘Costume In England’ describes this as originally a shirt or smock and adopted by women as an undergarment.
This undergarment fell from their shoulders to calves, and was called a chemise, shift, or vest. During the day, it was worn under stays, or a corset, and at night it could be worn as a nightshirt. Wealthier women could afford specific bedroom attire, but lower and working class women wouldn’t have had this luxury and so wore a chemise as both an undergarment and as sleepwear. The rich and the upper classes wore embroidered and otherwise decorated versions of this simple linen or cotton shift. Other classes of women wore a very simple version with little or no decoration as they had no time for decorative embroidery and no money to buy silk threads.
1804 London Hairstyles,Turbans and Hats. Gold, Pink, and White With Feathers. Jane Austen and her friends would have worn gorgeous hats and turbans like these. via Fashion Plate via Fashions of London and Paris, Published By Richard Phillips, St. Paul’s Church Yard, London, UK.
1820 ca. Groups of Dandies fashionably dressed. Hand Colored etching. Published By J. Le Petit, Dublin, U.K. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
A dandy is a man who places a lot of importance on his appearance, on having refined language living his life in a leisurely manner. A dandy didn’t have to be an aristocrat. He could also be a middle class man or a self-made man of wealth who could afford to place all his emphasis on his clothing and his leisure time.
1908 Silk and Rubber Corset, French. Front fastening, front suspenders, and back lacing. Made For C. F. Hovey & Co., Boston. Label: The Paris. Marking: label “7.50, Made in France, Véritable Baleine, Brévété S.G.D.G., Best Whalebone THE PARIS, Made in France, expressly or C.F. Hovey and Co., Boston.” stamped on bone lining of corset]; “Corset de Paris” paper label via Metropolitan Museum, NYC, USA Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Earl Rowe, 1951 Accession Number: C.I.51.15.25a, b
19th Century Writing Set, French. Old Paris porcelain pot with ormolu fittings, set on a pen tray that is papier mache and hand painted in Chinoiserie, Or Japonaise, Style. The type of writing sets that households would have in Jane Austen’s times for writing letters and keeping track of estate matters. Chinese and Japanese styles of household goods were very fashionable during the English Regency and Victorian years. via Ruby Lane Antiques. rubylane.com
1810 “A Bonnet Shop” By Thomas Rowlandson.A shopkeeper with a hat in each hand converses with an elderly woman wearing a similar hat. A child holding a rattle looks up at them at left, a plump woman wearing a bonnet sits at center, and a group of young women make bonnets in the background. Many groups of hats hang overhead in the shop. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
