1660-1700 ca. Gaming Purse, Probably French. Green velvet trimmed with copper-gilt thread. Gaming or gambling with cards popular 17th-century pastime and any gentleman or lady not playing games like Quadrille and Basset would have been considered ‘low-bred and hardly fit for conversation’ according to ‘The Compleat Gamester’, published in 1674. Typically, gaming purses had flat, circular bases with sides gathered on a drawstring. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.
1789-1790 ca. Man’s Red Riding Coat, England or France. Wool plain weave, full finish, with metallic-thread embroidery, tan breeches, black riding boots and crop. Credit: (M.2007.211.46) via Los Angeles County Museum of Art, California, USA. collections.lacma.org
1800 Outfit Of A Young Man With Grey Cutaway Coat, French. Grey cutaway coat, red vest or waistcoat, high white cravat, yellow breeches with red fob at waist, yellow gloves, black boots with tassels, hat and walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
In the early years of the 19th century, men’s fashions changed dramatically. Coats were cut higher in the front and finished in long tails at the back. Waist length square-cut waistcoats were displayed beneath tailcoats. The lining of the shoulders and upper chest of the coat was sometimes quilted to improve the fit and some dandies wore boned corsets to give them a small waist. Trousers became increasingly fashionable in the first quarter of the 19th century as men gradually adopted long trousers rather than knee breeches. At first long length pants were only worn for day and informal dress and breeches were still required for court dress, but by the 1820s trousers were accepted as evening wear.Â
Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass. The tan hat from the late 18th century was worn and developed into the top hat which was worn for day and formal dress throughout the 19th century. Hair was carefully styled into a windswept look or worn short and curled.
1808 Gentleman’s Ensemble, French. Drap Redingote or coat, black hessian boots with heart shaped front, black top hat. Fashion Plate via suzilove.com and Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Typical gentleman’s outdoor ensemble as worn by men in Jane Austen’s time, or the Regency Era. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
Hessian Boots: Named after German mercenaries who fought alongside British. Soft, highly polished calfskin, knee high, heart-shaped top and decorated with tassel. Boot shaped like stirrup so rider could insert feet into stirrups and be kept securely in place. Tassels were designed to wear with breeches and didn’t suit tight fitting new trousers that dandies like Beau Brummell wore in 1800s so Hessians replaced by other boots e.g. Wellington.
1810 French Gentleman. Riding outfit of double-breasted brown coat, tight pants with a side button decoration, jaunty black hat, gloves, and a crop. As Worn by Gentleman in the Bridgerton and Jane Austen Families. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Pantaloons: When tailcoats lengthened, breeches extended below the knees to accommodate the longer tails and were gradually replaced with slimmer fitting, longer pants, or pantaloons, that ended at the ankle. Pantaloons were close-fitting and sometimes buttoned all the way down the leg. To make them hug the leg tighter, knitted fabrics were used, or fabrics like nankin and kerseymere were cut on the bias.
In the early 1800s, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and an immaculate cravat of beautiful white linen in the style of George Bryan, or Beau, Brummell. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by Jane Austen’s male family and friends.
1813 French Couple In Morning Dress. Man: Brown overcoat and tan trousers. Lady: White dress and bonnet, long yellow gloves and holding a watering can. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
1802 Full Dress of Blue Court Suit, French. Man’s grand parure, or full dress, with white lace on the tailcoat and ruffles on the shirt, jewels, white stockings, black dress shoes, sword and a bicorn hat under his arm. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien. Typical menswear for court in most parts of Europe in the early 1800s, or Regency Era, or Jane Austen’s times, included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, breeches, stockings, dress shoes, and hat.
1805-1808 ca. Man’s three-part court suit of coat, waistcoat, and breeches, French. Wool broadcloth embroidered with silk and metallic threads, spangles, and glass. Plum colored broadcloth embroidered with plum colored and white silk and chenille, silver thread, spangles and brilliants. Supposed to have been worn by the Hon. James Bowdoin, U.S. Minister to Spain, 1805-1808, at a ball given by Napoleon at the Tuileries. Worn with 01.110 and 01.111. Said to have been worn by the Hon. James Bowdoin, U.S. Minister to Spain from 1805-1808; to his grand-nephew, James Bowdoin Winthrop by inheritance; to James Bowdoin Winthrop’s nephew, Robert C. Winthrop, Jr. by inheritance; gift of Robert C. Winthrop, Jr. to MFA, February 1, 1901.
DIMENSIONS Coat: center back (collar to bottom of coat): 106 cm (41 3/4 in.) Waistcoat: center front: 55.2 cm (21.75 in.) Breeches: center front: 67.9 cm (26.75 in.)
1799-1805 ca. Gold dress with small train and very small bodice.. via musee des tissus et des arts decoratifs de lyon. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1801-1804