1784-1826 ca. Woman’s Under Dress. White high-waisted underdress with drawstrings at neck and waist, narrow shoulder straps, back tie closure, embroidered with large scale scrolling floral motifs with meandering vine and bands of dots along the bottom edge. The type of underdress worn by Jane Austen’s female friends and family. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
1820 ca. Collection of Reticules, or Purses. Silk silver gauze, netting, fine crochet. Bags have drawstrings, chains and tassels. via Ruby Lane Auctions.
Definition Of A Reticule; Bag or purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. A reticule, or purse, or handbag, was usually carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. Earlier, women used pockets that tied at the waistline and were hidden in the folds of their skirts. Empire style, or early 1800s, high-waisted dresses made it impossible to either sewn in a pocket or to tie on a pocket, so women began carrying small, decorated bags called Reticules, or ridicules, which generally pulled close at the top with a drawstring. These Reticules, or bags, were the forerunners of our modern day purses.
1803 White Redingote, Or Overcoat, French. Striped vest, casually knotted white cravat, blue trousers tucked into high boots. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress Or Coat: French word developed from English words, riding coat. Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. Originally made with several capes and trimmed with large buttons. For women, the coat was often cut away in the front or left open to show off the dress underneath. French fashion plates call these coats Redingotes and they were worn by men, women, and children. English fashion plates call the coats a Pelisse, a walking dress, Promenade dress, or Carriage dress. books2read.com/suzilovePelisse
1826 House Of Lords In High Debate. From A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank.
Light-hearted look at a young man’s day in the early 1800s. Depicts the ups and downs of a young gentleman’s day in the Regency Era, or Jane Austen’s years. Through historic images, historical information, and funny anecdotes, it shows how a young man about town fills his day, where he goes, and who he spends time with. This light-hearted look at the longer Regency years is an easy to read overview of what people did and wore, and where they worked and played. There is plenty of information to interest history buffs, and lots of pictures to help readers and writers of historical fiction visualize the people and places from the last years of the 18th Century until Queen Victoria took the throne. Regency Life Series Book 3 Young Gentleman’s Day.com/suziloveYGD
1809 September Mother and Daughter Mild Mourning Dresses, English. “Our plate will be found to represent a lady and her infant in slight mourning habits: the former composed of black gossamer net, or imperial gauze, worn over a white satin slip. A half train. A round frock front, and short French sleeves, each edged with a rich Vandyke lace. A cestus, or belt, of white satin edged with gold bullion and finished in front with a rich cord and cone tassels, suspended from topaz studs. Pearl necklace and bracelets, with topaz snaps. Hair in the eastern style, with a Spartan diadem, and comb of topaz or gold. Circassian scarf of grey Spanish silk with a Tuscan border in black embroidery, tassels to correspond, confined on one shoulder with a topaz broach. Shoes of grey satin, with clasps of jet, or rosettes of black bugles. White gloves of French kid; and fan of black crape, with gold spangled devices.
‘In deep mourning, this robe should be formed of black crape, and worn over black sarsnet. The ornaments and trimmings of every description must be of bugles or jet. The shoes of queen’s silk. The scarf, black crape or imperial silk, spotted and bordered with bugles. Jet tassels and broach.
The child’s dress is a simple frock of black crape muslin, tucked small, and worn over a cambric skirt. A plain net-lace tucker, and cap to match. Grey kid slippers, with black clasps.’ Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository’ of Arts.
Because many men across Europe were fighting in wars during these years, women often had a reason to dress in black. The loss of numerous family members and friends meant that black was a mainstay in any lady’s wardrobe. Black dresses, hats, capes, shoes, gloves, fans and jewelry would have been essentials, with touches of white, grey or purple being added for times of half mourning. Early publications of Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’ had many fashion plates that included children, but the plate below with a child in ’slight’ mourning dress is very unusual. With this fashion plate is a description of how this ’slight’ mourning could be adapted for deep mourning.
Fabrics for deep mourning would be flat, rather than shiny, hats would be black with little embellishment, and jewelry would be subdued. Slight mourning allowed the white dress trimming, white gloves and these grey satin shoes.
Definition Van Dyke: V-shaped lace and trims named after a 17th Century Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Van Dyck, known for painting V-shaped lace collars and scalloped edges on sitters.
1809 Purple Redingote, Or Coat, French. V-shaped bodice with gold braid trim on sleeves, neck and hem, short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves, matching hat and walking shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. French word developed from English words, riding coat. Redingotes or Pelisses were needed to cover the flimsy dresses made of lightweight fabrics of the Regency years to provide warmth and some protection from windy conditions when gowns might lift and cause modesty issues. Jane Austen and her contemporaries often walked to places and so would have needed the warmth of a Pelisse or coat in the cold British winters.
1826 An Affair Of Honor Decided With Pistols In Hyde Park London, U.K. A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank. By the Regency Era, dueling was outlawed, yet duels still happened because the courts were made up of peers who were reluctant to charge another peer with murder as a result of a duel. Gentlemen considered a duel a matter of honor and death was preferable to being labeled a coward.
Duels had a code of honor and were fought not so much to kill the opponent as to gain satisfaction and restore honor by demonstrating a willingness to risk your life. Originally dueling was only for the male members of nobility but then extended to all members of the upper classes. At first, duels were fought with swords but by the Regency Era, duels with pistols were more common. Some duels were also fought between women.
Favorite dueling grounds near London included Hampstead Heath, Chalk Farm and the common land that extended south of the Thames over modern Battersea, Putney and Wimbledon. The windmill there was a popular landmark beneath which duelists often agreed to meet. These locations were convenient for their proximity to the city, yet also sufficiently remote to avoid interruption and in the event of a fatality, attractively close to potential getaway routes on the roads out of London.
1826 An Affair Of Honor Decided With Pistols In Hyde Park London, U.K. A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank.
1810-1850 ca. Cotton Corset With Whalebone Busk, American. Straps tie at the front. Center front has a busk Chanel to insert a whalebone to keep the corset stiff and in place. There is extra stitching on the corset to give more shape and extra reinforcing to keep the corset upright and the dress worn over it smooth and flat. Marking stamped on the lining, ‘Jane Laney’ and Mrs. Bishop, Corset Maker, 108 Hudson St., New. York, USA. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
Surviving stays, or corsets as they became to be called in the nineteenth century, show that both longline and shorter corsets were worn and that they were made of cotton, silk and sateen. A lot of these corsets were front fastening, plus many were laced at both the front and the back so our aristocratic fictional heroines could indeed dress and undress themselves without the assistance of a maid.
Definition Busk: Central panel in a corset to give it extra shape. Made from wood, bone which was usually whalebone, ivory, and in the latter 1800s from metal.
Do you need more factual and visual information for your historical fiction? History of fashion, music, peerage and customs in 18th and 19th centuries. Non-fiction series full of gorgeous pictures and engraved fashion plates. A visual history of fashion, music, peerage, social manners and customs from late 1700s to late 1800s, or 18th and 19th centuries.
