1835-1840 ca. Man’s Gold Silk Banyan. Made from 18th century quilted gold patterned silk. A Banyan is an 18th century men’s garment often worn as a morning gown, dressing gown or informal coat. This banyan is like a fitted coat. 1835-1840 (garment); 1740-1790 (material) via American Textile History Museum. athm.org

Banyan: Also called a dressing gown, morning gown or Indian robe. Originated in India but adopted in England by the late 1600s. Informal wear, not night attire, and came in assorted shapes from loose kimono-style robes to more fitted robes. They were worn instead of a coat in informal situations, such as with family or for an evening at home with close friends, or for a country breakfast. Underneath a banyan, a man usually wore a shirt, matching waistcoat and breeches. During the Georgian Era, a matching cap was often worn instead of a wig, making the whole a fashionable outfit and not just a robe. Victorian smoking jackets were based on earlier banyans.

From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass. 

Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.