1809 Purple Redingote, Or Coat, French. V-shaped bodice with gold braid trim on sleeves, neck and hem, short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves, matching hat and walking shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. French word developed from English words, riding coat. Redingotes or Pelisses were needed to cover the flimsy dresses made of lightweight fabrics of the Regency years to provide warmth and some protection from windy conditions when gowns might lift and cause modesty issues. Jane Austen and her contemporaries often walked to places and so would have needed the warmth of a Pelisse or coat in the cold British winters.
1826 An Affair Of Honor Decided With Pistols In Hyde Park London, U.K. A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank. By the Regency Era, dueling was outlawed, yet duels still happened because the courts were made up of peers who were reluctant to charge another peer with murder as a result of a duel. Gentlemen considered a duel a matter of honor and death was preferable to being labeled a coward.
Duels had a code of honor and were fought not so much to kill the opponent as to gain satisfaction and restore honor by demonstrating a willingness to risk your life. Originally dueling was only for the male members of nobility but then extended to all members of the upper classes. At first, duels were fought with swords but by the Regency Era, duels with pistols were more common. Some duels were also fought between women.
Favorite dueling grounds near London included Hampstead Heath, Chalk Farm and the common land that extended south of the Thames over modern Battersea, Putney and Wimbledon. The windmill there was a popular landmark beneath which duelists often agreed to meet. These locations were convenient for their proximity to the city, yet also sufficiently remote to avoid interruption and in the event of a fatality, attractively close to potential getaway routes on the roads out of London.
1826 An Affair Of Honor Decided With Pistols In Hyde Park London, U.K. A Regency Gentleman’s Life. From The English Spy By Robert Cruikshank.
Reticule Or Bag: Purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. Carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. in the place of pockets.
Spencer: Short jacket, cropped at the waist, worn over a dress, or gown. Delicate and regency dresses provided so little protection from the cold, so over garments were essential for warmth, modesty and good health.
Pelisse Or redingote Or Walking Dress: Coat worn over clothing of both sexes for warmth and protection from the elements.
1810-1850 ca. Cotton Corset With Whalebone Busk, American. Straps tie at the front. Center front has a busk Chanel to insert a whalebone to keep the corset stiff and in place. There is extra stitching on the corset to give more shape and extra reinforcing to keep the corset upright and the dress worn over it smooth and flat. Marking stamped on the lining, ‘Jane Laney’ and Mrs. Bishop, Corset Maker, 108 Hudson St., New. York, USA. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
Surviving stays, or corsets as they became to be called in the nineteenth century, show that both longline and shorter corsets were worn and that they were made of cotton, silk and sateen. A lot of these corsets were front fastening, plus many were laced at both the front and the back so our aristocratic fictional heroines could indeed dress and undress themselves without the assistance of a maid.
Definition Busk: Central panel in a corset to give it extra shape. Made from wood, bone which was usually whalebone, ivory, and in the latter 1800s from metal.
1760-1800 ca. Pink Enamel and Copper Necessaire Or Etui, Staffordshire, England. Dimensions: 3 3/4 x 1 5/8 in. (9.5 x 4.1 cm) Credit: Pierpont Morgan, 1917 via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. metmuseum.org
Definition Necessaire Or Etui: Small toiletry, writing, or sewing containers were called Necessaire or Etui: Tiny boxes or containers were carried in large castles or sprawling manor houses so a lady or gentleman had their essentials with them all day. They were also important when traveling by coach, trains, or on ships where space was always limited. A necessaire or Etui was easily carried in a bag, reticule, or pocket so essentials were on hand for personal grooming, to repair a ripped hem, replace a button, to embroider, or to write a note or letter.
“There is nothing I would not do for those who are really my friends. I have no notion of loving people by halves, it is not my nature.” Jane Austen ~ Northanger Abbey (1817) #JaneAusten #RegencyEra #Quotation
1804 Fawn Drap Riding Habit in Jane Austen style. High-waisted dress with a full skirt and train, skirt buttoned at the side, long straight sleeves, velvet snug hat, Fichu around her neck, riding crop, two views of hairstyles. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Male tailors made most women’s riding habits during the Regency years and they were constructed similarly to men’s riding outfits. Generally in two pieces, a jacket and a skirt, and with a shirt with a frilled collar or front opening underneath. The trains of a habit could be caught up for walking, usually with a button and loop, and unhooked and let down so that the skirt flowed over the woman’s legs when she rode side saddle. Due to the numerous wars during the early 1800s, it was seen as patriotic for women to add military style touches to outfits in support of military men. The shoulder and cuff trims resemble the epaulettes and coat trims of a military uniform.
1817 May Pink Evening Dress, English. A white lace dress over a blush-coloured satin slip. The dress is disposed round the bottom of the skirt in festoons, which display a little of the slip; each festoon is ornamented with a bouquet of blue-belles, pinks, and rose-buds. The festoons are surmounted by a rollio of intermingled pink and white saton. We refer to our print for the form of the body, which is novel and tasteful. The sleeve is very short and full; it is finished at the bottom by quillings of blond. The hair is dressed in a plain braid across the face, and a few loose ringlets at the sides. The hind hair forms a tuft, which is concealed by the head-dress, a high wreath of fancy flowers. Pearl necklace. White kid slippers and gloves. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
1820-1840 ca. Reticule, Or Purse, France. Bag of plain weave white moiré silk embroidered in colored silks using satin, stem, knot and couching stitches. Shape is five-sided, flat, with a scalloped top. Borders of flower wreaths. Embroidered on one side with a greyhound and with a long-tailed bird on the other. Worked as two separate panels, joined. Lined in pale blue taffeta. Blue and white silk cord. via Cooper Hewitt, New York City, USA. collection.cooperhewitt.org
Definition Reticule: Bag or purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. A reticule, or purse, or handbag, was usually carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. Earlier, women used pockets that tied at the waistline and were hidden in the folds of their skirts. Empire style, or early 1800s, high-waisted dresses made it impossible to either sewn in a pocket or to tie on a pocket. So women began carrying small, decorated bags called Reticules, or ridicules, which generally pulled close at the top with a drawstring. http://books2read.com/suziloveReticules
