1810-1812 ca. Embroidery on Dress, Probably Spanish. Made of Embroidered cloth with Pina, or pineapple motifs. In Jane Austen’s times, pineapples were very much a luxury item. It became popular to sew items in pineapple shapes or to embroider pineapples onto articles. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
Box Set combining Corset books 14-21 to give a complete picture of the progression of corset styles from 1700 through to the 1900s, including Jane Austen’s lifetime. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveCorsetBook22
This Box Set combines corset books 14-21 to give a complete picture of the progression of corset styles from 1700 through to the 1900s, including Jane Austen’s lifetime and the Bridgerton years. These books show how body wraps, stays, and corsets were worn through the centuries to create a variety of fashionable silhouettes through various historical eras. Corsets flattened breasts and accentuated rounded hips or pushed up breasts and showed off the bust line depending on the fashions of the time and the desired silhouette.
1816 August Back view of a lady in Evening Dress, English. White, high-waisted, dress with short bodice, long sleeves, frilled hem plus decoration above the frill, high plumed headdress, and reading music sheets. “A gown of white soft satin, cut low all round the back and bosom.The skirt gored, and a good deal of fullness thrown behind. The body, which is disposed in small plaits, displays the shape, as our readers perceive by print, to very great advantage; it is trimmed round bosom with a wreath of small white net roses, with a little tuft of pearl in the heart of each. Long loose sleeve, composed of white lace, and finished a la Parisienne with a rich double frill at the wrists.
The skirt is ornamented, in an exquisitely tasteful style, with a broad flounce of rich blond, surmounted by a wreath of roses and deep scallops of white net, the points of which are finished by bows of white satin ribbon. The effect of this trimming is uncommonly beautiful. Hair, cropped and curled full in the back of the neck, and dressed light, and much parted on the forehead: it is ornamented With a superb white ostrich-plume, at the base of which is an aigrette of diamonds. Neck-lace, ear. rings, and bracelets also of diamond. White satin slippers, and white kid gloves. We have to thank the condescension of a lady of much celebrity in the fashionable world, to whom we are indebted for a sight of the very elegant and tasteful dress from which our present print is designed.” Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
This book shows how corsets changed to both provide support and also fit well under clothing to give a fashionable silhouette. Corsets started being a fashion item, rather than simply underclothing to be hidden. Romantic Era women’s fashionable corsets. Corsets worn from 1830-1850, or the Romantic Era of fashion. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveCorsetBook18 Corsets 1830-1850 History notes Book 18
1800 ca. Sleeveless Chemise or Nightgown of white cotton and lace. Length just below knee. Gathered back and front onto yoke of lace and gathered fabric inserts. Gathers around neck by tape in casing. ‘Blanche’ embroidered centre front. Waist up to 50 in or more. via National Trust Collections, UK. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
Definition Chemise Or Shift: Sleeveless, mid-calf length garment of white cotton or muslin was worn next to the skin under stays or corset. Called ‘Shift’ from early Georgian (1700-1750) until Late Georgian (1750-1790) to replace ‘Smock’. By 1800, name replaced by ‘Chemise’. Sometimes doubled as a nightshift, or nightrail. From around 1700, women wore a long garment, like a man’s shirt, next to their skin, day and night. ‘Costume In England’ describes this as originally a shirt or smock and adopted by women as an undergarment.
This undergarment fell from their shoulders to calves, and was called a chemise, shift, or vest. During the day, it was worn under stays, or a corset, and at night it could be worn as a nightshirt. Wealthier women could afford specific bedroom attire, but lower and working class women wouldn’t have had this luxury and so wore a chemise as both an undergarment and as sleepwear. The rich and the upper classes wore embroidered and otherwise decorated versions of this simple linen or cotton shift. Other classes of women wore a very simple version with little or no decoration as they had no time for decorative embroidery and no money to buy silk threads.
1800-1805 ca. White cotton petticoat of the sort worn by Jane Austen in the early 1800s. Worn under a sleeved, trained dress and over a loose knee length chemise and corset which covered the exposed bust area. The skirt of the petticoat has an apron front open down the side seams. Drawers were not commonly worn at the time. via The John Bright Collection. thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk
Petticoats were made to fit under the low cut bodices of the early 1800s fashions, and to not be seen under a wide and square bodice. This meant thin ribbons were sometimes attached at the shoulders so the petticoat would be virtually without a bodice.
1819 White Percale Dress, French. Deep hem of bubbly muslin, matching Percale Spencer or jacket, pink parasol and flowered straw hat. Spencer has short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves and military style trimmings. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Even though this a French fashion plate, this is typical of the outdoor outfit worn by Jane Austen and her contemporaries when going outside. An Empire style, or high-waisted white cotton dress worn under a Spencer, or jacket, for warmth and with a parasol to protect fair complexions from the sun.
Description Spencer: Short jackets worn for warmth over the high-waisted Empire style gowns that were popular after the French Revolution, where there was a shift away from opulence and decadence to simpler fashion. This jacket with very short bodice and long sleeves was known as a Spencer and was named after the male coat made famous by the Earl Spencer and said to have originated in accident to Lord Spencer in hunting when coat tails torn off and a cropped jacket was invented. The dresses in the early 1800s therefore became looser, lighter, and flowing and women became cold due to their very low cut and short bodices. Short fitted jackets that went easily over the dresses and provided extra modesty and some warmth. As Europe and many other parts of the world were deep in wars in the late 1700s and early 1800s, men in uniform were found everywhere. In support of these military men, fashions leaned towards military style shoulder paddings, shoulder embellishments, loops, buttons, and braids.
Definition Percale or Perkale: From the Persian word pargalah. Fine cotton fabric, or cambric muslin of good quality, originally from India, generally bleached, printed and finished without gloss. Contains more dressing than ordinary muslin, but without the glossy finish of cambric and is printed in fancy patterns on white and colored grounds. In May 1816, Percale was commented on in Rudolph Ackermann’ Repository Of Arts, “Perkale, as they call cambric muslin, is now almost the only thing worn in the morning costume: you must not, however, fancy that this proceeds from a wish to encourage English manufacture, but partly from a love for novelty, and partly because it is less expensive than cambric, and equally fashionable.”
1811 January Walking Dress, or Pelisse, English. Jane Austen and her contemporaries wore long coats like these to keep warm when out and about, visiting, shopping etc. Their thin muslin dresses worn in the early 1800s were little protection against European winters.
Round high morning robe of cambric with deep full-trimmed collar. Swedish coat of velvet, trimmed with swansdown or blue fox fur. Spanish pelerine of the same, fastened in front of the throat with a mother-of-pearl brooch, clasps to correspond for the bottom of the waist. Traveller’s, or slouch, hat of velvet turned up with shell ornament, half-boots of grey cloth, laced and bound with black velvet. Chinese ridicule, or reticule, or bag, of grey satin, embellished with black medallions and tassels. Gold chain and eye-glass, or quizzing glass.. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository’ of Arts.
Definition Redingote Or Coat Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. French word developed from English words, riding coat. French fashion plates call these coats a Redingote and English plates call them a Pelisse, Or Walking Dress, or Carriage Costume. For more of these, try my book on Pelisses, History Notes Book 5 . books2read.com/suzilovePelisse
Definition Swansdown: Fine down of a swan, used for trimmings on clothing and for making powder puffs.
Definition Velvet or Velour: Silk with short, dense and smooth pile produced by pile warp raised in loops above ground weave through introduction of rods during the weaving.
Definition Ridicule, Reticule, Indispensable, or Handbag: From the late 1700s, pockets could no longer be sewn into gowns nor could separate pockets be tied around their waists and accessed by slits in the gown and petticoats, as skirts fell from just under the bust and were full and flowing. Instead, women began carrying small bags, known at first as ridicules and later as reticules, to keep necessary items on their person e.g. handkerchiefs, coins, vinaigrettes, calling cards, glasses etc. For more on reticules, try my History Notes book 3 http://books2read.com/suziloveReticules
1818 Military style Redingote, or Coat,or Walking dress, French. High-waisted pale blue outdoors coat with military style braiding and decoration on bodice and sleeves. Matching hat is fitted to her head but with a large high brim and white feathers, or plume, blue walking boots and gloves. The type of outfit young Regency Era ladies would have worn if they were out shopping on Bond Street, walking in a park, or taking a carriage ride through Hyde Park. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. .
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress Or Coat: French word developed from English words, riding coat. Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. Often left open at the front to show off the dress underneath. Sometimes cut away in front. Originally made with several capes and trimmed with large buttons. French fashion plates call these coats Redingotes and they are designed for women, men and children. English fashion plates call them a Pelisse, a walking dress, Promenade dress, or Carriage dress.
