1810 Fawn Cotton Gown, with a train decorated with embroidered flowers. Regency fashion at its prettiest. The style of Empire style, or high-waisted, dress worn by Jane Austen and her contemporaries. via Gemeenteneun Museum Den Haag. Dutch Museum, the Netherlands. http://www.gemeentemuseum.nl
1800s “Admiration”. By Vittorio Reggianini. Oil on canvas. This looks like a typical drawing room scene from Jane Austen’s lifetime, or the early 1800s, or the Regency Era. Via Wikimedia Commons commons.wikimedia.org
1801-1828 ca. Man’s Outfit, British. Double breasted, swallow tailcoat of navy wool, plush dark blue velvet collar. Buttoned flap and waist beige breeches, cream vest, intricately tied white cravat. via museumoflondon.com
In the early 1800s, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and an immaculate cravat of beautiful white linen in the style of George Bryan, or Beau, Brummell. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by Jane Austen’s male family and friends.
From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
19th Century Early Jane Austen and Bridgerton Style Gold Silk Spencer With Puffed Shoulder. With V-shaped rouleaux trim to the bodice and puffed shoulder detail. via Christie’s Auction Rooms. christies.com
1805-1815 ca. Capote, Or Bonnet, Netherlands. Black quilted bonnet with black ribbon chin ties. Jane Austen and her family and friends would have worn this style of bonnet. via Rijks Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands. rijksmuseum.nl
1800-1810 ca. Flat Silk Slippers With Ankle Ties Worn By Empress Josephine Bonaparte and As Worn By Jane Austen And friends. #Regency #Shoes #JaneAusten #France
Shoes in the early 1800s were flat or low heeled and occasionally decorated with a bow or floral embellishments and it wasn’t until the 1820s that square, rather than rounded or pointed toes became fashionable. Made of soft kid or cloth, these delicate shoes were flimsy and wore out quickly. There was often no difference between a left or right shoe, so when one slipper had a hole it was easily replaced. Slippers were often bought in multiples at a time so there were spares.
Regency London 1820 The English Metropolis By John Corry Via Google Books (PD-180)
This great metropolis is sixty miles distant from the sea; it is built on the banks of the river Thames; is about seven miles in length, from east to west, but of an irregular breadth, being in some parts two miles, in others three, and at the broadest part four miles. Its three distinct and municipal divisions are, the city of London, the city of Westminster, and the borough of Southwark, which, with their extensive suburbs, cover a space of more than twenty miles in circumference. According to the Population Return of 1811, this metropolis then contained 149,430 houses, including those building and uninhabited; and since that period there have been but few new houses built, so that the real number is probably not more than 150,000.
In the year 1801, the population of London was ascertained to be 900,000. The number in 1811, amounted to 1,009,546. Beneath the pavement large arched sewers communicate with the houses by smaller ones, with the street by small openings covered with iron grating, and with the Thames, which contributes much to the cleanliness and health of the inhabitants of this populous place. Houses on each side of these streets are lofty, spacious, and commodious, generally four stories high, and chiefly occupied by tradesmen, whose shops present the most beautiful and perfect productions of nature and art for the general accommodation of man, There are two extensive lines of commercial streets from east to west, the principal of which begins at Mile End, and thence through Whitechapel, Aldgate,Leadenhall-street, Cornhill, Cheapside, St. Paul’s Church-yard,Ludgatehill, Fleet-street, the Strand, Pall Mall, St. James’s-street, and’ Piccadilly, to the southern side of Hyde Park. But besides these numerous storehouses of merchandise, there are also many thousand shops in various directions. Ample supplies of water afforded by the Thames And New River Water-works, are essentially conducive to the health and comfort of the inhabitants.
St. Paul’s Church is the most magnificent. It is situated near the northern bank of the Thames, and when viewed from Blackfriar’s Bridge in the vicinity, presents one of the noblest ornaments of superb architecture ever beheld by the human eye. This beautiful cathedral is built of Portland stone, in the form of a. cross, adorned in the central part by a lofty dome, on the summit of which is a light and elegant lantern, ornamented with Corinthian columns, and surrounded by a balcony. Next to St. Paul’s cathedral for magnificence, and even greater in extent, is that fine monument of gothic architecture Westminster Abbey, or the collegiate church of St. Peter.Among the modern churches that of St. Mary-le-Bone is remarkable for a spacious and stately portico composed of eight columns and two pilasters of Portland stone, in the Corinthian order. This church is built north and south, and the northern front, which is opposite the Regent’s Park.
The Tower of London, which has been the scene of many a tragic and affecting event, is the only fortress in the city. It is situated on the northern bank of the Thames, eastward of London Bridge, contains the Jewel Office, Mint, three armouries, and the royal train of artillery. The menagerie, near the west entrance, has for ages been a principal object of attraction to rustic visitors, who on their arrival considered it indispensable to see the lions.
1817 White Percale Dress, French. Dress has layers of decoration above hem, black velvet Spencer, or jacket, wide brimmed straw hat trimmed in blue, neck scarf and walking shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Spencers: Short jackets worn for warmth over the high-waisted Empire style gowns said to have originated when Earl Spencer tore the tails off his coat in a hunting accident. In support of military men fighting wars everywhere, fashions for Spencers leaned towards military style embellishments, such as loops, buttons, and braids. Puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves were also very popular. Jane Austen and her friends and family wore Spencers over their high-waisted dresses.
Definition Empire Style Dress: Named after the First Empire in France. Empire dresses had a low neckline and skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a high-waisted dress was worn most days. Cotton, silk or taffeta were the popular fabrics. Only the very wealthy could afford white dress in this style as the cottons were imported from India and had to be carefully cleaned, usually by a lady’s maid.
1815 July Seaside Walking Dress. A high dress, of short walking length, made of French cambric or jaconot muslin, trimmed at the feet with treble flounces of French work, gathered into a rich bead heading, and laid upon the dress, at a suitable distance, one above the other, the body made with open fronts, worn with a full ruff of the French work, corresponding to the trimming at the feet; a long sleeve, drawn alternately across the arm, terminates with a broad wristband, worn plain over the hand. French bonnet of white satin, edged and tied under the chin with satin ribbon of celestial blue; ornamented with a rich plume of white feathers, edged to correspond. French mantle of the twilled silk en suite, richly embroidered at the ends in shaded silks, composing roses or lilies of the valley. Patent silk stockings. Slippers, or half-boots, or blue kid, or primrose colour. Gloves to correspond.
The bodies of the morning and promenade costume continue to be worn with cross or handkerchief fronts, and are generally trimmed, agreeably to the texture of the dress, with quilled tull or ribbon. The quilled ribbon is also predominant in single rows at the feet of all dresses composed of silk, bombazeen, or fancy prints. The prevailing colours are primrose, celestial blue, and evening primrose; the waist short, and the fullness of the petticoat carried to the back. Ruffs of French work are universally worn, except in full dress. The length of the petticoat continues not to exceed meeting the top of the boot and the color of the latter corresponds with the glove, mantle, and trimming of the bonnet.