19th Century Early Jane Austen and Bridgerton Style Gold Silk Spencer With Puffed Shoulder. With V-shaped rouleaux trim to the bodice and puffed shoulder detail. via Christie’s Auction Rooms. christies.com


1775-1825 ca. Bridgerton and Jane Austen Style Black Silk Breeches, American or European. #Bridgerton #JaneAusten #GeorgianEra #RegencyFashion books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
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Regency London 1820 The English Metropolis By John Corry Via Google Books (PD-180)
This great metropolis is sixty miles distant from the sea; it is built on the banks of the river Thames; is about seven miles in length, from east to west, but of an irregular breadth, being in some parts two miles, in others three, and at the broadest part four miles. Its three distinct and municipal divisions are, the city of London, the city of Westminster, and the borough of Southwark, which, with their extensive suburbs, cover a space of more than twenty miles in circumference. According to the Population Return of 1811, this metropolis then contained 149,430 houses, including those building and uninhabited; and since that period there have been but few new houses built, so that the real number is probably not more than 150,000.
In the year 1801, the population of London was ascertained to be 900,000. The number in 1811, amounted to 1,009,546. Beneath the pavement large arched sewers communicate with the houses by smaller ones, with the street by small openings covered with iron grating, and with the Thames, which contributes much to the cleanliness and health of the inhabitants of this populous place. Houses on each side of these streets are lofty, spacious, and commodious, generally four stories high, and chiefly occupied by tradesmen, whose shops present the most beautiful and perfect productions of nature and art for the general accommodation of man, There are two extensive lines of commercial streets from east to west, the principal of which begins at Mile End, and thence through Whitechapel, Aldgate,Leadenhall-street, Cornhill, Cheapside, St. Paul’s Church-yard,Ludgatehill, Fleet-street, the Strand, Pall Mall, St. James’s-street, and’ Piccadilly, to the southern side of Hyde Park. But besides these numerous storehouses of merchandise, there are also many thousand shops in various directions. Ample supplies of water afforded by the Thames And New River Water-works, are essentially conducive to the health and comfort of the inhabitants.
St. Paul’s Church is the most magnificent. It is situated near the northern bank of the Thames, and when viewed from Blackfriar’s Bridge in the vicinity, presents one of the noblest ornaments of superb architecture ever beheld by the human eye. This beautiful cathedral is built of Portland stone, in the form of a. cross, adorned in the central part by a lofty dome, on the summit of which is a light and elegant lantern, ornamented with Corinthian columns, and surrounded by a balcony. Next to St. Paul’s cathedral for magnificence, and even greater in extent, is that fine monument of gothic architecture Westminster Abbey, or the collegiate church of St. Peter.Among the modern churches that of St. Mary-le-Bone is remarkable for a spacious and stately portico composed of eight columns and two pilasters of Portland stone, in the Corinthian order. This church is built north and south, and the northern front, which is opposite the Regent’s Park.
The Tower of London, which has been the scene of many a tragic and affecting event, is the only fortress in the city. It is situated on the northern bank of the Thames, eastward of London Bridge, contains the Jewel Office, Mint, three armouries, and the royal train of artillery. The menagerie, near the west entrance, has for ages been a principal object of attraction to rustic visitors, who on their arrival considered it indispensable to see the lions.












1817 White Percale Dress, French. Dress has layers of decoration above hem, black velvet Spencer, or jacket, wide brimmed straw hat trimmed in blue, neck scarf and walking shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Spencers: Short jackets worn for warmth over the high-waisted Empire style gowns said to have originated when Earl Spencer tore the tails off his coat in a hunting accident. In support of military men fighting wars everywhere, fashions for Spencers leaned towards military style embellishments, such as loops, buttons, and braids. Puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves were also very popular. Jane Austen and her friends and family wore Spencers over their high-waisted dresses.
Definition Empire Style Dress: Named after the First Empire in France. Empire dresses had a low neckline and skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a high-waisted dress was worn most days. Cotton, silk or taffeta were the popular fabrics. Only the very wealthy could afford white dress in this style as the cottons were imported from India and had to be carefully cleaned, usually by a lady’s maid.


1810-1814 ca. Muslin Dress, Canada. White muslin embroidered in white cotton with a delicate all-over design of sprigs and sheaves of wheat worked in stem stitch and long and short stitch. Unboned high-waisted bodice with draw-tape casing at square neckline, back draw-tapes at neck and waist, extra-long sleeves, puffed sleeves with flounce and whitework embroidery, straight-cut skirt gathered in back, hem trimmed with crocheted loops in white cotton. Embroidered in white cotton sprigs and wheat sheaves. In 1810s, draw-tapes often replaced drawstrings for bodice adjustment. Skirts changed to flaring around 1815.


The fit of this unboned bodice is controlled by a draw-tape in a casing at the square neckline. The back closure is controlled by draw-tapes at neckline and waist. The extra long sleeves have a narrow shoulder strap, are puffed and end with a flounce. Under the puff is a narrow horizontal insertion of whitework embroidery. The straight-cut skirt is fitted smoothly to the bodice in front, but is gathered to it in back. The hemline is trimmed with crocheted loops in white cotton. Lightweight muslin dresses like this one offered little warmth, so a stole was often needed to cover the shoulders. This dress was originally owned by the De Witt family of Quebec City. via McCord Museum, Canada. musee-mccord.qc.ca

1817 September Glengary Riding Habit, English, as would have been worn during Bridgerton and Jane Austen’s times. Pale blue cloth, richly ornamented with frogs and braiding, front braided on each side and fastens under the body of the habit, which slopes down on each side to define the figure. Epaulettes and jacket are braided to correspond with the front as is the bottom of the sleeve which is braided nearly half-way up the arm. Habit shirt is of cambric with a high standing collar and trimmed with lace. Cravat of soft muslin is richly worked at ends, tied in a bow, narrow lace ruffles at the wrists. Headdress is a Glengary cap of blue satin, trimmed with plaited ribbon of various shades of blue and a plume of feathers. Blue kid gloves are worn and half-boots. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Male tailors made most women’s riding habits during the Regency years and they were constructed similarly to men’s riding outfits. Generally in two pieces, a jacket and a skirt, and with a shirt with a frilled collar or front opening underneath. The trains of a habit could be caught up for walking, usually with a button and loop, and unhooked and let down so that the skirt flowed over the woman’s legs when she rode side saddle. Due to the numerous wars during the early 1800s, it was seen as patriotic for women to add military style touches to outfits in support of military men. The shoulder and cuff trims resemble the epaulettes and coat trims of a military uniform.


1815-1818 ca. Cocoa Silk Figured Dress with Spencer. High-waisted, Empire style, dress with long sleeved Spencer, decorated shoulders, bodice and hem. The Bridgertons, Jane Austen, and their family and friends would have worn this style of dress and Spencer. via Whitaker Auction whitakerauction.smugmug.com Spencers were needed to cover the flimsy dresses made of lightweight fabrics of the Regency years, to provide warmth and some protection from windy conditions when the transparency of gowns might cause modesty issues. Jane Austen and her contemporaries often walked to places and so would have needed the warmth of a Spencer over her dress in the cold British winters.
Definition Spencer: Short jacket said to have originated from an accident to Lord Spencer’s coat when hunting and tails were torn off.













1817 June Blue Riding Costume, English. Loose riding habit with a train on the skirt, high white neck frill on the shirt underneath, and rows of decoration on the shoulders and cuffs of the habit jacket, an extra high hat with multiple plumes, or, feathers and gloves. Fashion Plate via The Lady’s Magazine Or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex.
Male tailors made most women’s riding habits during the Regency years and they were constructed similarly to men’s riding outfits. Generally in two pieces, a jacket and a skirt, and with a shirt with a frilled collar or front opening underneath. The trains of a habit could be caught up for walking, usually with a button and loop, and unhooked and let down so that the skirt flowed over the woman’s legs when she rode side saddle. Due to the numerous wars during the early 1800s, it was seen as patriotic for women to add military style touches to outfits in support of military men. The shoulder and cuff trims resemble the epaulettes and coat trims of a military uniform.


1815 White Dress and Reticule, French. White dress, green bonnet with pink trim to match the adorable pink reticule and green gloves. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Jane Austen and her contemporaries would have worn this style of outdoor walking outfit and flowered hat.
Definition Reticule: Bag or purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. A reticule, or purse, or handbag, was usually carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. Earlier, women used pockets that tied at the waistline and were hidden in the folds of their skirts. Empire style, or early 1800s, high-waisted dresses made it impossible to either sewn in a pocket or to tie on a pocket. So women began carrying small, decorated bags called Reticules, or ridicules, which generally pulled close at the top with a drawstring.

