1815 June White Carriage Dress, English. Lady reading a book in a high-waisted white satin Pelisse, or Walking Or Carriage dress in the relaxed Empire style as would have been worn at home in the early 1800s, or during Jane Austen’s time. Richly ornamented with clusters of leaves made in white twilled sarsnet, headed with tull. Open fronts, trimmed to the bottom of the waist with a superb shell trimming of white satin ribbon and tull, loose sleeves trimmed at the wrists. High hat of white satin and tull with a plume of feathers of the pomona green. Half-boots of similar color. Gloves en suite and a necklace. Lady is viewing paintings and the program in her hand says ‘British Institution’. In this issue of The Repository there is an article called ‘Exhibition of Paintings by the Flemish and Dutch Masters at the British Institution, Pall Mall.’ Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
1620-1635 ca. Pin For Fastening Clothing, Made In Gloucestershire, England, U.K. Pins were a necessity for the fastening of clothing and the arrangement of dress accessories in the 16th and 17th centuries. Their importance for women as a personal requirement and expense is reflected in the term pin-money, the sum originally allocated to meet this essential cost. Ordinary people would have a small number of pins, the wealthy thousands.Pins were carefully looked after and sharpened periodically. They were extracted after use so as not to tarnish the fabric and placed in a pincushion.
Places Before the mid-16th century the finest pins were imported from France, but their manufacture in England was encouraged under Henry VIII, and an Act for the True Making of Pynnes was passed in 1543, controlling their quality and price. Gloucestershire and London became the main centres of the pin-making industry.
Materials & Making As the industry developed in the 16th century the major advance in the manufacture of pins came with the use of a steel draw-plate with a graduated series of holes. Wire, which was usually brass, could be drawn through this to any gauge, permitting standardisation of the size of the pins. The heads were made from fine coils of wire that were soldered in place.
Enormous quantities of pins were used for the fastening of clothing. Elizabeth I was supplied with 24,000 ‘pynnes of diverse sorts’ just for her coronation. Pins secured the petticoat in a ruffle above the farthingale (hoops that supported a skirt), and held the curves of the ruff in place around the neck. Several dozen might be used for one ensemble. Such a quantity required large pincushions. These pins were found in written documents that were dated between 1620 and 1635.
1804 January London Full Evening Dresses, English. White evening dress has a white tunic overlay and worn with long white gloves, a long necklace, and with an evening hairstyle that leaves dangling curls around her neck. Other evening dress has a tunic trimmed with orange cord, short sleeves, and worn with long gloves, and upswept evening hairstyle with a matching feather. Fashion Plate via Fashions of London and Paris. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1801-1804
