1700s Late Gentlemen’s Coats. A fitted coat was an essential part of a gentleman’s wardrobe in the late 1800s and were generally tailored and cut to fit tightly. Therefore, gentlemen needed a valet, or some other helper, to extricate himself and his shoulders from his glove-like coat. Breeches and a waistcoat in the same fabric usually completed the 18th century’s gentleman ensemble. Coats were generally worn long at the back and had elaborate decoration down the front openings, collars, and sleeve cuffs.
1805-1808 ca. Man’s three-part court suit of coat, waistcoat, and breeches, French. Wool broadcloth embroidered with silk and metallic threads, spangles, and glass. Plum colored broadcloth embroidered with plum colored and white silk and chenille, silver thread, spangles and brilliants. Supposed to have been worn by the Hon. James Bowdoin, U.S. Minister to Spain, 1805-1808, at a ball given by Napoleon at the Tuileries. Worn with 01.110 and 01.111. Said to have been worn by the Hon. James Bowdoin, U.S. Minister to Spain from 1805-1808; to his grand-nephew, James Bowdoin Winthrop by inheritance; to James Bowdoin Winthrop’s nephew, Robert C. Winthrop, Jr. by inheritance; gift of Robert C. Winthrop, Jr. to MFA, February 1, 1901.
DIMENSIONS Coat: center back (collar to bottom of coat): 106 cm (41 3/4 in.) Waistcoat: center front: 55.2 cm (21.75 in.) Breeches: center front: 67.9 cm (26.75 in.)
1812 Tailcoat of Blue Drap, French. White Nankin trousers with ankle openings, knotted white cravat, short hair with sideburns, black shoes, holding a black hat and walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien. By 1812, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and a cravat, either elaborately tied or simply knotted. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by Jane Austen’s male family and friends on a daily basis.
Definition Drap: French equivalent for the English word cloth or stuff and generally applied to fabrics of wool or silk.
Definition Nankeen Or Nankin: Durable, buff colored cloth, made of Chinese cotton which is naturally brownish yellow. Originally brought from Nanking.
1806 Gentleman With A Hand In His Pocket, French. Green cutaway coat, extra high white cravat, white striped breeches, yellow topped black boots, tan gloves, fob on the waistband, and long cane. Typical Gentleman’s outfit as worn by men to daytime activities, such as escorting his female family members to the shops in Bond Street,London,or for walking in the park in Jane Austen’s times. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
1815 French Couple. Lady in evening dress with scooped neckline on low-cut pink bodice, floral headpiece and long white gloves. Gentleman in brown tailcoat and stirrup trousers, vest, and casual necktie. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
The sort of fashionable outfits and items worn or carried by Jane Austen and her contemporaries when out in public. Ladies outfits for evening were accessorized with gloves, headdresses and jewelry and often dresses were of this shorter length for dancing. Gentlemen were always heavily accessorized as well with the essential of gloves, coats, waistcoats and neatly tied cravats. For more about the fashions of 1815, take a look at History Notes Books 23 and 28 men’s and women’s regency Era fashions.
Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 What did Jane Austen wear? What was fashionable for women at the end of the Regency Era in Britain and the reconstruction in Europe after the wars. Book 28 for 1815-1819 in History Notes Includes fashions for mourning, riding, dresses, hats, shoes, reticules or bags, underclothing, accessories.
Fashion Men 1800-1819 History Notes Book 23 What was fashionable for men in early 1800s, or Jane Austen’s time, or Regency Era? Suits, hats, shoes, underclothing, fashion accessories, military and bedroom fashions. French fashions and Georgian and Regency Era fashions from Great Britain were copied around the world.
1806 Waiting For the St. Cloud Coach, Place de la Concorde, Paris. Illustrations by Francis Courboin. via Les Modes de Paris. (PD-Art) This couple is depicted waiting for the coach, which was a passenger vehicle drawn by four horses. The woman is wearing a fashionable hat or “capote” that covers her face. Her dress maintains the empire waist and has very long sleeves that also have a ‘mancheron’ or a gathered sleeve at the shoulders. The man is wearing a ‘habit du gagé’ or a coat with tails, buttoned at the waist. His hat is a ‘haut-de-forme’ or what is commonly known in English as a top hat. He wears tight, short pants tucked into large, riding boots, as was the fashion for men. Illustrations by François Courboin from Octave Uzanne‘s Les Modes de Paris. Variations du goût et de l’esthétique de la femme, 1797-1897, L. Henry May, Paris, 1898, or from the English translation of the same work: Fashion in Paris : the various phases of feminine taste and aesthetics from 1797 to 1897, William Heinemann, London, 1898. Modes de Paris VIa Brown University Library .
19th Century First Half Gentleman’s Black Tailcoat. Wool broadcloth, triple notch collar, narrow waistband, sleeve tops gathered and uniformly wide to single scallop edge at bottom sleeve, inner tail pockets, death head embroidered buttons, elaborate hand quilted lining with floral patterns in concentric square frames and a “F.M.W.” monogram embroidered at the centre back top in red. Via Augusta Auctions – augusta-auction.com
Tailcoat: A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s. The men in Jane Austen’s life would have worn a black tailcoat like this for everyday wear. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
1804 Men’s Fashions In The Time Of Jane Austen. From the finish of the 18th century until 1820, men’s fashions in European and European-influenced countries moved away from the formal wear of brocades, lace, wigs and powder to more informal and relaxed styles. Focus was on undress rather than formal dress. Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
In 1806, the Journal des Dames et des Modes stated, ‘The informal outfit for a young man includes a coat of similar style, snug pantaloons which are probably knitted, and a striped waistcoat.’
Skirted coats were replaced with short-fronted, or cutaway, tailcoats worn over fitted waistcoats and plain, white linen shirts. Knee breeches were gradually replaced by tight-fitting pantaloons and later trousers, decorative shoes with buckles were replaced with a variety of boot styles, and fussy and ruffled neckwear gave way to intricately tied, white linen neck cloths. A Regency Era, or early 1800s, gentleman was outfitted in more practical fabrics, such as wool, cotton and buckskin rather than the fussy brocades and silks of the late 1700s.
18th Century Late Women’s Fashions. A conical body shape was still fashionable while the shape of the skirts changed. The wide panniers which held the skirts out at the sides mostly disappeared by 1780 for all but the most formal court functions and false rumps, or bum-pads or hip-pads were worn for a time. A low-necked gown, usually called in French a robe, was worn over a petticoat and most gowns had skirts that opened in front to show the petticoat worn beneath. As part of the general simplification of dress, the open bodice with a separate stomacher was replaced by a bodice with edges that met center front. Strapless stays which still were cut high at the armpit, to encourage a woman to stand with her shoulders slightly back, a fashionable posture. The fashionable shape was a rather conical torso, with large hips. The waist was not particularly small. Stays were usually laced snugly, but comfortably. Shoes had high, curved heels (the origin of modern “louis heels”) and were made of fabric or leather. Shoe buckles remained fashionable until they were abandoned along with high-heeled footwear and other aristocratic fashions in the years after the French Revolution,
18th Century Late Men’s Fashions. A man’s outfit consisted of a knee-length coat, knee breeches, a vest or long waistcoat, a linen shirt with frills and linen under drawers. Lower legs showed and were an important part of life. Men wore stockings and leather shoes with stacked heels of low or medium height. The whole ensemble would have been topped by a shoulder-length wig and a tricorne, or three-cornered, hat an upturned brim. By end of the 18th century, wigs were out of fashion except for the most formal occasions. Undergarments and knee breeches did not change very much. Coats gradually became less full and die front was cut in a curve towards the back. Waistcoats became shorter. The upper leg began to show more and more and by the end of the century breeches fitted better because they were often made of knitted silk. Shoes became low-heeled with pointed toes and were fastened with a detachable strap or ribbon on the front.
1806 Young French Gentleman. Brown Castorine Coat Over Blue Tailcoat, French. White cashmere breeches, white stockings, yellow gloves, black hat and a cane. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
French fashions and Georgian and Regency Era fashions from Great Britain were copied around the world. This is the normal daily outfit for a gentleman in the early 1800s, or in the times of Jane Austen, for daily city and country life.
Le Beau Monde magazine made suggestions for men’s fashion in November 1806.
“The neckcloth should, by no means, be too greatly puffed out; but should be neatly united in front with a large unspread bow. Dark bottle green coats will be as generally worn this season, as those of brown colours were last winter.
“For morning dress frock coats will be prevalent: those of an olive hue, with a black velvet collar, will be the most universal. Fancied waistcoats of all manufactures may be worn with this kind of coat; but fashion ordains the invariable use of dark blue or light-coloured kerseymere pantaloons, and half-boots. The boots must rise somewhat higher in the leg than has recently been the custom, and the toes of them should be formed into a perfect semi-cirlce.
“Full dress coats will likewise be made of dark green cloth, double-breasted, and will possess the similar ornament of a black velvet collar. Single-breasted white waistcoats, and light-coloured kerseymere breeches will be in much estimation. Either flesh-coloured or now-white silk stockings fashion now considered as elegant.
“The hair, for morning dress, should be cut à la Titus; for full dress, it should be powdered. Buckles for the shoes are employed in full dress; but ribbands are allowed in afternoon or dinner dress.”
