1810 Silk Brocade Waistcoat. Cream silk twill with a polychrome floral brocade stripe having narrow double breast, fold-down collar and wide lapel, black wool-covered buttons, straight pockets, cotton back and lining. The gentlemen of Jane Austen’s acquaintance would have worn waistcoats like this. via Christie’s Auction Rooms. christies.com
1804 London Hairstyles,Turbans and Hats. Gold, Pink, and White With Feathers. Jane Austen and her friends would have worn gorgeous hats and turbans like these. via Fashion Plate via Fashions of London and Paris, Published By Richard Phillips, St. Paul’s Church Yard, London, UK.
1850–1859 ca. Silk Whalebone and Steel Corset, French. Pale green watered silk corset with black flossing and contrast stitching. via Fine Arts Museums Of San Francisco https://art.famsf.org
1817 November Morning Dress and Evening Dress, English. Morning Dress is a round dress of Jaconot muslin with back buttons, small collar open in front to display the throat, lower part of front with bias tucks, moderately full skirt finished around bottom with small tucks and deep flounce with bright rose ribbon. Rose velvet Spenser trimmed with white satin and rose silk, finished at throat with white satin puffings. Plain long sleeves, French style Leghorn bonnet trimmed with large rows of ribbon to match Spenser and tied under the chin, stand-up lace frill around throat, swansdown muff, straw kid sandals and gloves.
Evening dress of fawn crepe over a white satin slip, cut low around the bust, confined to waist by a narrow cestus of white satin, fastened in front by a brilliant clasp. Single fall of Mecklin lace on dress, very short full sleeve finished at bottom by a rouleau of white satin and narrow lace plait. Skirt trimmed with double row of white satin Spanish puffs, very full and in bias. Hair high, parted and curled on the forehead with garland of Provence roses. Pearl earrings and necklace, spangled crape fan, white kid gloves and white satin slippers. Fashion Plate via The Mirror of Fashion in The Ladies’ Monthly Museum, England.
1815 Blue Dress Bodice, French. Layers of frills on dress back. Hairstyle and Various Bonnets as Jane Austen would have worn. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
1820 ca. Blue Beaded Purse, French. Blue and cream beadwork, silver plated frame. via Ruby Lane Antiques rubylane.com
Definition Reticule: Bag or purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. A reticule, or purse, or handbag, was usually carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. Earlier, women used pockets that tied at the waistline and were hidden in the folds of their skirts. Empire style, or early 1800s, high-waisted dresses made it impossible to either sewn in a pocket or to tie on a pocket. So women began carrying small, decorated bags called Reticules, or ridicules, which generally pulled close at the top with a drawstring. http://books2read.com/suziloveReticules
In the early nineteenth century, reticules started to look like future handbags as they were often made from rigid card or molded mâché or card into a variety of shapes. Early bags were circular and with a drawstring but as women wanted their reticules to look individual they could be made with two halves and a hinged metal closure or with concertina sides. Materials varied from silk, cotton and string and shapes were round, hexagonal or lozenge shapes with shell shaped bags becoming very popular during the Regency and Romantic Eras.
1800s magazines were written for well-bred women who could read, so they gave plenty of ideas for how ladies could make and embellish reticules for their own use and as pretty gifts. Needlework was highly encouraged as a pastime for a lady so bags were frequently embroidered or decorated with beading. By the 1820s, reticules became more like our modern handbags using soft leather gathered at the top or hard leather with a rigid fastener and metal chain for carrying.
19th Century Early Women’s Cotton Caps. Worn as morning caps, night caps, or under other hats. With lappets, hanging ties, or tails, which were also called ‘follow me lads’, or ‘flirtation ribbons’. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
Definition Caps: Worn as morning caps, night caps, or under other hats. Jane Austen and her family and female friends would have worn caps like these, sometimes during the morning at home, to bed to keep their long hair from becoming knotted, or under a bonnet to hold a hairstyle in place.
Caps sometimes had hanging ties, or tails, were also called ‘follow me lads’, or ‘flirtation ribbons’.
Definition Lappets: Two long strips of material, often lace, hanging from top of head down back or over shoulders. Sometimes extensions of a headdress and a requirement for court dress.
19th Century First Half Woman’s Embroidered Cap, French. In the 19th Century, women wore some sort of headwear during the day and the evening. Finely decorated cotton caps were worn during the morning with informal or At-Home, dress and at night with nightwear. These caps had fine embroidery, ruffles, lace edgings on the streamers, embroidered, pointed edges of the ruffles, ties, and streamers, known as ‘follow me lads’ or ‘flirtation ribbons’.
19th Century First Half Woman’s Embroidered Cap, French. Cotton mull with cotton embroidery, linen bobbin lace insertion, silk ribbon, round gathered crown with spoked wheel design in center surrounded by long leafed wreath, outside this a wreath of carnations, same carnations around forehead band and neck band, design embroidered with white linen thread, white taffeta ribbon run through the embroidered net casing and tied in center back. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
1813 Yellow Redingote Or Coat, French. Hooded coat with gorgeous white trim, yellow boots, yellow velvet bonnet with a white plume. Jane Austen and her female family and friends wore fashions like these. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Redingote, or Pelisse, or Walking Dress, or Promenade Dress: Going by many names, this is a coat copied from men’s overcoats but worn by both men and women. Generally, opens down the front, worn for warmth over a dress or coat and breeches, and has a military look with front vertical buttoning or decoration. Called a Redingote in French periodicals but English magazines called them by many other names: pelisse, carriage dress, walking dress, promenade costume.
