“I hate to hear you talk about all women as if they were fine ladies instead of rational creatures. None of us want to be in calm waters all our lives.” Jane Austen Persuasion (1817) #JaneAusten #Quote
Music history from the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries. Pianos, pianofortes, harps, viols, violins played during Jane Austen’s times. Musical Instruments were so important in most of the more affluent households in history that large industries grew all around the world to manufacture instruments, musical accessories, and to print sheet music. Musical instruction and encouragement could be found everywhere and both young ladies and gentlemen were encouraged to have musical appreciation. And of course, playing music was on the list of social requirements for all young ladies desirous of becoming a wife and homemaker.
London became Europe’s leading centre for the manufacture of scientific instruments and this led to the manufacture of more musical instruments as well as factories developed and rail transport helped the faster distribution of goods to regional areas. One of the first places that music was used to tell stories and to share enjoyment was in Christmas music. Because music was such an integral part of households, music was always a feature in Magazines. There were advertisements everywhere for musical instruments for sale, for sheet music, and for music lessons. And of course, of most interest to the ladies were the hundreds of fashion plates included in magazines where people were depicted with their musical instruments.
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1800 ca. Sleeveless Chemise or Nightgown of white cotton and lace. Length just below knee. Gathered back and front onto yoke of lace and gathered fabric inserts. Gathers around neck by tape in casing. ‘Blanche’ embroidered centre front. Waist up to 50 in or more. via National Trust Collections, UK. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
Definition Chemise Or Shift: Sleeveless, mid-calf length garment of white cotton or muslin was worn next to the skin under stays or corset. Called ‘Shift’ from early Georgian (1700-1750) until Late Georgian (1750-1790) to replace ‘Smock’. By 1800, name replaced by ‘Chemise’. Sometimes doubled as a nightshift, or nightrail. From around 1700, women wore a long garment, like a man’s shirt, next to their skin, day and night. ‘Costume In England’ describes this as originally a shirt or smock and adopted by women as an undergarment.
This undergarment fell from their shoulders to calves, and was called a chemise, shift, or vest. During the day, it was worn under stays, or a corset, and at night it could be worn as a nightshirt. Wealthier women could afford specific bedroom attire, but lower and working class women wouldn’t have had this luxury and so wore a chemise as both an undergarment and as sleepwear. The rich and the upper classes wore embroidered and otherwise decorated versions of this simple linen or cotton shift. Other classes of women wore a very simple version with little or no decoration as they had no time for decorative embroidery and no money to buy silk threads.
1807-1817 ca. Man’s Leather Breeches, American. These are the sort of pants that the men Jane Austen knew would have worn for riding or in the country. Drop front buttoned flap at the waist, a drawstring at the back waist to adjust waist size, and drawstrings and buttons at the calves to keep the breeches secure when worn with high boots. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
19th Century Cross Letter or Cross Writing or Cross Hatching. The writer reached the bottom of the page, turned the paper sideways and adds a second layer of text. During the 19th century, paper was expensive and postal delivery was charged per page, or by the size of the paper. Cross-writing was a way to save paper and postage in Jane Austen and Bridgerton times, and many of Jane Austen’s letters were written this way. Once it becomes familiar, the mind adapts easily and cross-writing letters are surprisingly legible. Charles Darwin also favored this technique.
And so in proportion; the postage increasing progressively one penny for a single letter for every like excess ok distance of 100 miles. 1802 Picture of London Printed for R. Phillips via Google Books (PD-180)
1810 Stockdale’s Peerage King George William Frederick III. From Stockdale’s Peerage of England, Scotland and Wales. Containing an Account of All the Peers of the United Kingdom . via Google Books Printed for John Stockdale, Piccadilly, London, U.K.
Our present Most Gracious Sovereign, was born May 24, 1738 and baptized June, 1738, at Norfolk House. Succeeded his father in the titles of Prince of Great Britain, Electoral Prince of Brunswick-Lunenburg, Duke of Edinburgh, Marquis of the Isle of Ely, Earl of Carrick and Eltham, Viscount Launceston, Baron of Renfrew and Snowdon, Lord of the Isles, and Steward of Scotland ; but the Duchy ot Cornwall was merged in the crown. He was, by letters patent, April zr, 1751, created Prince of Wales ; and on the death of his royal grandfather, George II. the crown of Great Britain devolved on his Royal Highness, Oct. z$, 1760, and he was proclaimed the next day with the usual solemnities. His Majesty married, Sept. 8, 1 76 1 , Sophia-Charlotte, Princess of Mecklenburg-Strelit, sister to the present and late Duke, and their Majesties were crowned the 22d of the same month.
PRINCE OF WALES.
GEORGE- AUGUSTUS -FREDERICK, Prince of Great Britain, Prince of Wales, Electoral Prince of Brunswick- Lunenburg, Duke of Cornwall and Rothesay, Earl of Chester and Carrick, Baron of Renfrew, Lord of the Isles, Hereditary Great Steward of Scotland, a Colonel in the Army, and Colonel ef the 10th Regiment of Light Dragoons, Captain-General of the Royal Artillery Company, High Steward o! Plymouth, Knight of the Garter, and F. R. S. Born Aug. 12,1762; and, on the 17th of the same month, his Majesty ordered letters patent for creating him Prince of Wales and Earl of Chester ; and Nov. 1783, his Royal Highness took his seat in the House of Peers ; in 1765, elected a Knight Companion of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, and installed at Windsor, July 25, 1771. Married, April 8, 1795, Caroline-Amelia- Elizabeth, second daughter of the late Duke of Brunswick (born May 17, 1768), by whom he has a daughter, Charlotte-Caroline-Augusta- born Jan 7, 1796. Edward, the Black Prince, was the first Duke of Cornwall, created 1337, in perpetuity to his heirs; by virtue of which the eldest son of the King of England is Duke of Cornwall. The Earldom of Chester is by creation by letters patent 3 1 Henry III. 1247, and has been invariably annexed to the eldest son of the King of England. The titles of Hereditary Steward of Scotland, Duke of Rothesay, Earl of Carrick, and Baron of Renfrew, were titles annexed by B’ belt III. King of Scotland, 1399, to the eldest to the eldest Prince of Scotland, on his birth, and have continued from that period. The title of Prince of Wales was first conferred on the infant son of Edward I 1284, and has never been bestowed but on the heir to the Throne.
DUKE OF YORK. PRINCE FREDERICK, Duka of YORK and ALBANY in Great Britain, and Earl of Ulster in Ireland, Bishop of Osnaburg, Knight of the Garter and Bath, D. C L. F. R. S. and a Field-Marshal, Colonel of trie First Regiment of Foot Guards, Colonel in Chief of the sixtieth (or. Royal American) Regiment of Foot, and of the Royal Dublin Regiment of in.fantiry, Lord Warden of Windsor Forest and Great Park, and Warden and Keeper of the New Forest, Hampshire ; second son of his Majesty. Born Aug. 16, 1763. Created as above Nov. 27, 1784. Married, Sept. 29, 1791, Frederica Charlotte- Ulrica-Catharina, Princess Royal of Prussia (born May 7, 1767), eldest daughter to the late King of Prussia, by his first consort, Elizabeth-Ulrica-Christiana, Princess of Brunswick- Wolfen- buttel, sister to the late Duke.
DUKE OF CLARENCE: PRINCE-WILLIAM-HENRY, Duke of CLARENCE and x ST. ANDREWS in Great Britain, and Earl of Munster in Ireland, Knight of the Garter and Thistle, Admiral of the Red, and Ranger of Bushy Park ; third son of his Majesty. Born Aug. 21, 1765. Created as above, May 16, 1785.
DUKE OF KENT: PRINCE EDWARD, Duke of KENT and STRATHERN Great Britain, Earl of Dublin in Ireland, fourth son of his Majesty, Knight of the Garter and of St. Patrick, Field-Marshal of the Forces, Governor of Gibraltar, Colonel of the First Regiment of Foot, Keeper and Paler 0/ Hampton Court Park. Born Nov. 2, 1767. Created as above, April 23, 1790. Arms.
DUKE OF CUMBERLAND. PRINCE ERNEST-AUGUSTUS, Duke of CUMBERLAND and TlVIOTDALE in Great Britain, Earl of Armagh in Ireland, fifth son of his Majesty, a Knight of the Garter, and D. C. L. Chancellor of the University of Dublin, a General in the Army, and Colonel of the 15th Regiment of Dragoons. Born June 5, 1771. Created as above, April 43, 1799. Arms.
DUKE OF SUSSEX: PRINCE AUGUSTUS-FREDERICK, Duke of SUSSEX, Earl of Inverness in North Britain, Baron Arklow in Ireland, Knight of the Garter. Born Jan. 27, 1773, sixth son of his Majesty. Created as above, Nov. 7, 1801. His Royal Highness married, April 3, 1793, Augusta Murray, second daughter of John Earl of Dunmore, by whom he had Augustus-Frederick, born Jan. 13, 1794; and was re-married Dec 5, 1793, at St. George’s church, Hanover Square, London. This marriage was declared null and void, being in violation of stat. 12 Geo. III. c. 11. which enacts that no descendant of the body of King George II. (other than the issue of princesses married into foreign countries) is capable of contracting. matrimony without the previous consent of the King, signified under the great seal ; and any marriage contracted without such consent is void. And the marriage was accordingly dissolved in August 1794. Arms. — See plate 3.
DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE. PRINCE ADOLPHUS- FREDERICK, Duke of CAMBRIDGE, Earl of Tipperary in Ireland, and Baron of Culloden in North Britain, seventh son of his Majesty. Born Feb. 24, 1 774. Knight of the Garter, a General in the Army, Colonel of the id or Coldstream Regiment of Foot Guards. Created as above, Nov. 27, 1801.
DUKE OF GLOUCESTER: PRINCE WILLIAM-FREDERICK, DUKE of GLOUCESTER and EDINBURGH in Great Britain, Earl of Connaught in Ireland, Knight of the Garter, a General in the Army, Colonel of the third- Regiment of Foot Guards, and Ranger of Bagshot Park and Walk. Born at Rome, Jan.-J5, 1776. Succeeded his father, Prince William-Henry, the, late Duke, Aug. 25,. 1805. His Royal Highness’s father, Prince William-Henry, Duke of Gloucester, was third son of his Royal Highness Frederick- Lewis, Prince of Wales, and brother to his Majesty ; born, Nov. 25, 1743, and by patent Nov. 14, 1764, created Duke of Gloucester and Edinburgh in Great Britain, Earl 0/ Connaught In Ireland, Knight of the Garter, Senior Field-Marshal of his Majesty’s Forces, Colonel of the first Regiment of Foot Guards, Chancellor of the University of Dublin, Ranger and Keeper of Cranbourne Chase, Ranger of Hampton Court Park, Lord Warden and Keeper of the New Forest, Hampshire. His Royal Highness married, Sept. 6, 1766, Maria, Countess Dowager of Waldegrave, widow of James, second Earl of Waldegrave, and daughter of Sir Edward Walpole, Knight of the Bath, and by her (who died Aug. 23, 1807) had issue: (• Sophia-Matilda, born May 29, 1773-; 2. Caroline- Augusta- Maria, born June 24, 1774, died March 14, 1775; 3.Wil liam-Frederick, the present Duke. His Royal Highness died Aug. 25, 1805, and was succeeded by his only son, Prince William-Frederick, the present and second Duke. Anms.
The King’s sons, brothers, uncles, and nephews are Styled Princes of the Blood Royal, and have precedency of all other Dukes, with the title of Royal Highness.
1810 King George William Frederick III Biography. #RegencyEra #Royalty #BritishHistory https://books2read.com/suziloveROver Share on X
1800-1805 ca. White cotton petticoat of the sort worn by Jane Austen in the early 1800s. Worn under a sleeved, trained dress and over a loose knee length chemise and corset which covered the exposed bust area. The skirt of the petticoat has an apron front open down the side seams. Drawers were not commonly worn at the time. via The John Bright Collection. thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk
Petticoats were made to fit under the low cut bodices of the early 1800s fashions, and to not be seen under a wide and square bodice. This meant thin ribbons were sometimes attached at the shoulders so the petticoat would be virtually without a bodice.
1819 White Percale Dress, French. Deep hem of bubbly muslin, matching Percale Spencer or jacket, pink parasol and flowered straw hat. Spencer has short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves and military style trimmings. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Even though this a French fashion plate, this is typical of the outdoor outfit worn by Jane Austen and her contemporaries when going outside. An Empire style, or high-waisted white cotton dress worn under a Spencer, or jacket, for warmth and with a parasol to protect fair complexions from the sun.
Description Spencer: Short jackets worn for warmth over the high-waisted Empire style gowns that were popular after the French Revolution, where there was a shift away from opulence and decadence to simpler fashion. This jacket with very short bodice and long sleeves was known as a Spencer and was named after the male coat made famous by the Earl Spencer and said to have originated in accident to Lord Spencer in hunting when coat tails torn off and a cropped jacket was invented. The dresses in the early 1800s therefore became looser, lighter, and flowing and women became cold due to their very low cut and short bodices. Short fitted jackets that went easily over the dresses and provided extra modesty and some warmth. As Europe and many other parts of the world were deep in wars in the late 1700s and early 1800s, men in uniform were found everywhere. In support of these military men, fashions leaned towards military style shoulder paddings, shoulder embellishments, loops, buttons, and braids.
Definition Percale or Perkale: From the Persian word pargalah. Fine cotton fabric, or cambric muslin of good quality, originally from India, generally bleached, printed and finished without gloss. Contains more dressing than ordinary muslin, but without the glossy finish of cambric and is printed in fancy patterns on white and colored grounds. In May 1816, Percale was commented on in Rudolph Ackermann’ Repository Of Arts, “Perkale, as they call cambric muslin, is now almost the only thing worn in the morning costume: you must not, however, fancy that this proceeds from a wish to encourage English manufacture, but partly from a love for novelty, and partly because it is less expensive than cambric, and equally fashionable.”
1811 January Walking Dress, or Pelisse, English. Jane Austen and her contemporaries wore long coats like these to keep warm when out and about, visiting, shopping etc. Their thin muslin dresses worn in the early 1800s were little protection against European winters.
Round high morning robe of cambric with deep full-trimmed collar. Swedish coat of velvet, trimmed with swansdown or blue fox fur. Spanish pelerine of the same, fastened in front of the throat with a mother-of-pearl brooch, clasps to correspond for the bottom of the waist. Traveller’s, or slouch, hat of velvet turned up with shell ornament, half-boots of grey cloth, laced and bound with black velvet. Chinese ridicule, or reticule, or bag, of grey satin, embellished with black medallions and tassels. Gold chain and eye-glass, or quizzing glass.. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository’ of Arts.
Definition Redingote Or Coat Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. French word developed from English words, riding coat. French fashion plates call these coats a Redingote and English plates call them a Pelisse, Or Walking Dress, or Carriage Costume. For more of these, try my book on Pelisses, History Notes Book 5 . books2read.com/suzilovePelisse
Definition Swansdown: Fine down of a swan, used for trimmings on clothing and for making powder puffs.
Definition Velvet or Velour: Silk with short, dense and smooth pile produced by pile warp raised in loops above ground weave through introduction of rods during the weaving.
Definition Ridicule, Reticule, Indispensable, or Handbag: From the late 1700s, pockets could no longer be sewn into gowns nor could separate pockets be tied around their waists and accessed by slits in the gown and petticoats, as skirts fell from just under the bust and were full and flowing. Instead, women began carrying small bags, known at first as ridicules and later as reticules, to keep necessary items on their person e.g. handkerchiefs, coins, vinaigrettes, calling cards, glasses etc. For more on reticules, try my History Notes book 3 http://books2read.com/suziloveReticules
