1818 May ‘Beau’s of 1818’ By George Cruikshank. Two Dandies shake hands while third watches. All wearing bell-shaped top-hats, extra high collars, short waists, long spurs and yellow gloves. One with moustache wears wide and short white trousers, one wears top-boots and riding-breeches and has monocle in his eye and third has very full trousers gathered above ankle. These are the sort of outfits that the Bridgerton men and Jane Austen’s male contemporaries would have worn. Hand colored etching. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
1818 May ‘Beau’s of 1818’ By George Cruikshank. Two Dandies shake hands while third watches. All wearing bell-shaped top-hats, extra high collars, short waists, long spurs and yellow gloves. One with moustache wears wide and short white trousers, one wears top-boots and riding-breeches and has monocle in his eye and third has very full trousers gathered above ankle. Hand colored etching. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
1817 October. White Promenade Dress, English. High dress of jaconet muslin richly embroidered around the hem, body composed entirely of work, Long sleeve, finished down the arm in front by bouillons of lace. Charlotte Spencer of blue satin, tight fitting and short waist, wide sleeve ornamented at wrist and shoulder, elegant trimming and disposed in so tasteful manner to give the appearance of perfect novelty. Bonnet, a la Ninon, of the same material, cut in small squares, edged with white satin, turned over at the ends, very large front displays the front hair which is braided across the forehead, edged with puffed gauze, disposed in points, and confined by a narrow fold of white satin, sprig of acacia on left side and finished by white satin strings. French ruff and ruffles of rich lace. Blue or white kid shoes and gloves.
We have again to acknowledge our obligations to Miss M’Donald of 29, Great Russel Street, Bedford Square, for our dresses this month. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 What did Jane Austen wear? . D2D_HN_28_https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1810 Sarcophagus Shaped Inkstand, British. Inkstand is made in the shape of a sarcophagus. Ink pots and a tray for the quill. In Jane Austen’s time, young gentlemen went on their “Grand Tour’ to gain education and experience and they sent, or brought back, unique and decorative items to represent their travels. Often, these decorative items were copied by British manufacturers to sell for the home market. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. mfa.org
1810 Inkstand, British. Inkstand is made in the shape of a sarcophagus. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. mfa.orgHN_13_D2D_Writing Tools
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1819 January ‘Going to White’s’. By Richard Dighton. Lord Alvanley walks on the pavement going to White’s Club for gentlemen in London wearing a top-hat, double-breasted coat, strapped trousers, and the high collar of a dandy. Via British Museum, London, UK. britishmuseum.org (PD-Art)
White’s was an exclusive Gentlemen’s Club on St. James Street, London, U.K where well-dressed men, or Dandies, gathered at a special table in front of the large bow window looking out at the street. This became known as a seat of privilege and was used by London’s most famous Dandy, Beau Brummell. Other well-known dandies were William Arden, Joshua Allen, Thomas Raikes and Ball Hughes. Cartoonists loved to ridicule these high-in-the-instep gentlemen who wore the most fashionable clothes and set the fashion trends for the Regency years, and the years when Jane Austen was writing her famous novels.
1830 Hatchetts, the White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, London, UK. By James Pollard. Denver Art Museum.
The dreadful condition of British roads caused great apprehension to all classes of travelers. Making a journey anywhere in the country was a big undertaking and often a gentleman composed his last will and testament before his departure. Traveling in vehicles was only possible during the day or on the nights with very bright moonlight with few vehicles attempting road travel in winter and any travel on a Sunday was frowned upon. books2read.com/SuziLoveTravel
Description of Stage Coach Travel in England. via 1815 Journal Tour of Great Britain. “The gentlemen coachmen, with half-a dozen great coats about them, immense capes, a large nosegay at the button-hole, high mounted on an elevated seat, with squared elbows, a prodigious whip, beautiful horses, four in hand, drive in a file to Salthill, a place about twenty miles from London, and return, stopping in the way at the several public-houses and gin-shops where stage-coachmen are in the habit of stopping for a dram, and for parcels and passengers on the top of the others as many as seventeen persons. These carriages are not suspended, but rest on steel springs, of a flattened oval shape, less easy than the old mode of leathern braces on springs. Some of these stage coaches carry their baggage below the level of the axletree.”
1830 Hatchetts, the White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, London, UK. By James Pollard. Denver Art Museum. HN_10_D2D_RetailerBuyLink_Travel and Luggage By Suzi Love History Notes Book 10 #History #travel How did people travel in past centuries? What did they take with them to make their long journeys easier? books2read.com/SuziLoveTravel
1800 ca. Brown Silk Trousers, French. Though these pants are French, the men in Jane Austen’s life would have worn similar trousers. Drop down front flap, or ‘fall’, buttoned waist front and back, extra fabric in the back for ease of movement and ties at calves to hold in place. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A.
1800 ca. Brown Silk Trousers, extra fabric in the back for ease of movement. 1800 ca. Brown Silk Trousers, French. Drop down front flap, or ‘fall’, buttoned waist front and back. 1800 ca. Brown Silk Trousers, French. Drop down front flap, or ‘fall’, buttoned waist front and back. 1800 ca. Brown Silk Trousers, French. Drop down front flap, or ‘fall’, buttoned waist front and back, extra fabric in the back for ease of movement and ties at calves to hold in place. HN_23_D2D_Fashion Men 1800-1819
1801 Typical Gentleman’s Suit, French. Normal outfit worn by men in the times of Jane Austen, or the Regency Era, or the early 1800s. Blue tailcoat with brass buttons, taupe breeches tied beneath the knees, white stockings, black dress shoes, black hat, gloves and cane. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Typical menswear in the early 1800s included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, either breeches, pants, or the newer trousers, stockings, shoes or boots, all worn with an overcoat and hat. This basic ensemble was accessorized with some form of neckcloth or cravat, gloves, a walking stick, cane or riding crop, handkerchief, fobs, a watch and perhaps a quizzing glass or eye glass.
HN_23_D2D_Fashion Men 1800-1819 History Notes Book 23
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1808 Gentleman’s Ensemble, French. Drap Redingote or coat, black hessian boots with heart shaped front, black top hat. Fashion Plate via suzilove.com and Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Typical gentleman’s outdoor ensemble as worn by men in Jane Austen’s time, or the Regency Era. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
Hessian Boots: Named after German mercenaries who fought alongside British. Soft, highly polished calfskin, knee high, heart-shaped top and decorated with tassel. Boot shaped like stirrup so rider could insert feet into stirrups and be kept securely in place. Tassels were designed to wear with breeches and didn’t suit tight fitting new trousers that dandies like Beau Brummell wore in 1800s so Hessians replaced by other boots e.g. Wellington.
1808 Gentleman’s Ensemble, French. Drap Redingote or coat, black hessian boots with heart shaped front, black top hat. Fashion Plate via suzilove.com and Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionMen1800-1819
‘Omnibuses, under the name of carrosses a cinq sous, were started in Paris in 1662. Seven vehicles to carry eight passengers each, all inside, were built, and on March 18th, 1662, they began running. The first one was timed to start at seven o’clock in the morning, but an hour or two earlier a huge crowd had assembled to witness the inauguration ceremony, which was performed l)y two Commissaires of the Chatelet, attired in their official robes. Accompanying them were four guards of the Grand Prevot, twenty men of the City Archers, and a troop of cavalry. ‘
In 1828, George Shillibeer, a London coach builder, visited Paris where he was impressed by the efficiency of the new horse-drawn bus service. The following year, he started a single horse-drawn omnibus connecting Paddington and Regent’s Park to the City of London. Passengers were picked up and set down anywhere along the route and fares were paid on board, in contrast to short-stage coaches which had to be booked in advance.
This new omnibus was pulled by three horses and carried 22 passengers who sat inside and were protected from the weather. Fares were sixpence and one shilling, less than a hackney cab or short-stage coach, but still too expensive for the lower classes.
1829 July 4th George Shillibeer Omnibus, London, U.K. First Omnibus between Paddington and Bank of England via the New Road, now Marylebone Rd., Somers Town and City Rd. Via Wikimedia Commons.
In 1832, the London City monopoly of hackney carriages was removed, so horse buses expanded and within two years there were 620 licensed horse buses in London. By the Great Exhibition in 1851, London’s increase in visitors meant this number doubled and the number of routes increased to 150. By 1856, several bus operators were taken over by the new London General Omnibus Company until, with 600 omnibuses, they were the largest bus company in the world. In 1833, the first real steam omnibuses, the ‘Era’ and ‘Autopsy’ were invented by Walter Hancock, of Stratford, and started on the London roads. The ‘Era’ was the better omnibus of the two, and the most flattering things were said and predicted of it. Enthusiasts declared that omnibuses of this type would enable passengers to be carried at a cheaper rate and greater speed. The ‘Era’ ran from Paddington to the Bank, the same route as the horse-drawn omnibuses, and carried fourteen passengers, the fare being sixpence all the way. It travelled at the rate of ten miles an hour. Travel on these roads was also dangerous as highwaymen stopped and robbed anyone who came along. Male or female made no difference to highwaymen in Britain, nor to the bushrangers in Australia or the gangs on American roads, as they robbed indiscriminately and often with violence.
By the end of the 18th Century, however, travel as a pleasurable pursuit came into vogue and numerous guides were written for traveling all over the British Isles as well as on the continent. The 1812 ‘Tour Of Dr. Syntax’ was an ironic look at the new obsession of travel and travel guides. Before he set off for the Lake District, Dr. Syntax said to his wife, “You well know what my pen can do, and I’ll employ my pencil too: I’ll ride and write, and sketch and print and thus create a real mint: I’ll prose it here, I’ll verse it there and picturesque it everywhere. I’ll do what all have done before; I think I shall and somewhat more.” Georgian and Regency travelers were envious of aristocrats, even if they were of the nobility themselves, and loved to view all the British Great Houses.
A gentleman and his wife would even drive up to the front door of a mansion house and demand to be given a tour of the house. If they weren’t admitted, they would write in their journals of the inhospitable nature of the people on a particular estate. Thomas Pennant, William Mavor, and others, loved to write about these bad experiences and have them published. Paterson’s British Itinerary, a travel guide had 17 editions between 1785-1832 – it outlined the roads used by the stage and mail coaches, the tolls, the bridges, etc. This new touring craze created an industry of hospitality that encompassed more than simple mail coach trips from place to place, and more than a noble family traveling from their country seat to the Metropolis of London for parliamentary sittings. Inns had to improve the quality of the linens and meals if they wanted to attract the wealthier traveling class. Before that, many travelers carried their own linen, crockery, glasses, and utensils, as they didn’t trust the hygiene or standards of country inns.
Travel became something written about by poets with many sonnets written to the beauty of places like the Lake District in England, or the pyramids in Egypt. Inns became cleaner and more respectable so they could welcome travelers of the upper classes. This also meant that women could travel more as roads were slowly improved from rutted tracks that were only suitable for horse riding to roads that family coaches could travel along, though these roads were still narrow and subject to extremes of weather, such as flooding. The race was on to travel from places like London to Edinburgh in the fastest possible time.
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1819 February Pink Ball Dress, English. Underskirt with white lace hem, pink layer with intricate decoration, short puffed sleeves, low décolletage, or neckline, white shawl and white hat with pink feather. Fashion Plate via John Belle’s La Belle Assemblée or, Bell’s Court and Fashionable Magazine, London. Women’s clothing came in the late 1810s came in a wide range of styles to suit every season and occasion. When attending assemblies or balls, ladies in Jane Austen’s times women wore Empire style dresses which were usually made of light fabric and floaty in style and often of a shorter length suitable for dancing. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
Definition Ball Dress: At the end of the 1810s, ball or dancing dresses had higher hemlines that rose several inches above the ankle so ladies wouldn’t trip on their hens or flounces and make a spectacle of themselves.
Definition Aigret, aigrette, egret: Plume of feathers or jeweled ornament in shape of feathers worn on head or hats. During the early 19th century, or Jane Austen’s lifetime, or during the years of the Bridgerton series, the favorite feathers were osprey and heron.
1819 February Pink Ball Dress, English. Underskirt with white lace hem