1817 November Cambric Muslin Walking Dress, English. As would have been worn by Jane Austen and her female contemporaries when out walking. Row of pointed work forms a narrow pelerine, high on the bosom, and ends in a point in front. The skirt has a deep muslin flounce beneath a row of soft muslin bouffone. Brown Spencer of gros de Naples has figured buttons which are intermixed with an elegant trimming. Sleeves ends are like the hem with a double row of buttons and trimming. The newly fashionable epaulette is edged and finished with buttons on the shoulder. Autumnal bonnet has a large front, low crown, and ties under the chin with a large bow. Swansdown muff, lilac sandals and pale lemon kid gloves finish the ensemble. ‘We have been favored this month with both our dresses by a lady, one of our subscribers, who purchased them, we understand, at Mrs. Bell’s in St. James’s Street.’ Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Definition Empire Style Dress: Named after the First Empire in France. Empire dresses had a low neckline and skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a high-waisted dress was worn most days. Cotton, silk or taffeta were the popular fabrics. Only the very wealthy could afford white dress in this style as the cottons were imported from India and had to be carefully cleaned, usually by a lady’s maid.
Definition Spencer: Short jacket, cropped at the waist, worn over a dress, or gown. These close-fitting, tight sleeved, waist length jackets were modeled on a gentleman’s riding coat, but without tails. Delicate and regency dresses provided so little protection from the cold, so over garments were essential for warmth, modesty and good health.
