In Jane Austen’s years of the early nineteenth century, women often wore light-weight dresses under which was worn a range of underclothing to stop gowns appearing transparent and sticking to a lady’s body. To preserve modesty, underclothing included a chemise next to the skin, then a corset, and then petticoats to give shape to a dress and to keep it away from her body.
1802 Full Dress of Blue Court Suit, French. Man’s grand parure, or full dress, with white lace on the tailcoat and ruffles on the shirt, jewels, white stockings, black dress shoes, sword and a bicorn hat under his arm. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien. Typical menswear for court in most parts of Europe in the early 1800s, or Regency Era, or Jane Austen’s times, included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, breeches, stockings, dress shoes, and hat.
1818 Printed Cotton Gown, American. Brown high-waisted, or Empire line, gown as would have been worn during Jane Austen’s lifetime. Sleeves are puffed at the shoulders with unusual puffs to decorate the long straight sleeves. Hem has multiple rows of ruffles to decorate. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
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1806 Short Sleeved White Muslin Dress With Train, French. Bodice and sleeves have ribbon decoration, evening flowered headdress, half parure of necklace and ear bobs, and gorgeous Indian hand loomed green shawl. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
Definition Jewelry – Parure: Matched set of jewelry, including a necklace, bracelet, earrings, pin etc. Half Parure had no headpiece.
Definition Shawls: The shawl started off in India as a fine wool garment for men that could be worn as a scarf, turban or as a mantle: the word comes from the Persian shäl. Originally imported from the East, European Kashmir shawls were made first in Norwich and Edinburgh in Britain in the late 18th century. Shawls were an essential item in the early 1800s to cover the thin gowns women wore. They were made of muslin, gauze, silk, wool, and velvet, though cashmere shawls were the softest and most prized.
1816 October Half-Dress. A gown of lilac sarsnet, cut low round the bust, which is trimmed with pink ribbon, disposed so as to form a wreath; the shape of the back is marked by hands of pink, and a large bow, in the French style, ornaments the middle of it at bottom. The back is full; a plain light front forms the shape in a most becoming manner. Long full sleeve, composed of clear muslin, trimmed at the wrist with a single row of lace, and finished by a pink bow. Fichu to correspond, very full trimmed round the throat with lace. The bottom of the skirt is edged with pink, and trimmed with a single flounce of blond lace, set on very full, and surmounted by a wreath of French roses. Cornette composed of tulle, finished by a quilling of blond round the face, and fastened by a pink bow under the chin; a bow to correspond ornaments it on the forehead, and a bunch of flowers is placed very far back on the head. The style of this cornette, though French, is so simply elegant and becoming, that we have not for some time seen any half-dress cap to equal it. Plain gold ornaments. White kid gloves, and white kid slippers with pink rosettes. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Definition Half Dress: Between undress and full dress, respectable outfit without an excess of formal accessories and might be worn either day or evening. Could include Afternoon Dress, such as Afternoon Walking Dress and even Evening Dress if not a very formal evening occasion, such as a theatre attendance or dinner engagement.Â
1816 October Half-Dress. A gown of lilac sarsnet, cut low round the bust, which is trimmed with pink ribbon, disposed so as to form a wreath. Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1812 Tailcoat of Blue Drap, French. White Nankin trousers with ankle openings, knotted white cravat, short hair with sideburns, black shoes, holding a black hat and walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien.
In the early 1800s, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well-cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and an immaculate cravat of beautiful white linen in the style of George Bryan, or Beau, Brummell. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by the Bridgerton family and Jane Austen’s male family and friends.
Definition Drap: French equivalent for the English word cloth or stuff and generally applied to fabrics of wool or silk.
Definition Nankeen Or Nankin: Durable, buff colored cloth, made of Chinese cotton which is naturally brownish yellow. Originally brought from Nanking.
HN_23_D2D_Fashion Men 1800-1819 History Notes Book 23
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1805-1815 ca. Bonnet. Olive brown stiffened, peaked brim, and lined with ivory satin to protect pale skin from sun in Bridgerton and Jane Austen style.
Regency bonnets were made in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, and with elaborate decorations. This was a practical way of offsetting the minimalism popular in Regency Era fashions. During the early 1800s, most young ladies, and some older ones, wore white dresses in the relaxed styles of ancient Greece. This neoclassical movement saw women wearing Empire style, or high-waisted, gowns that were either straight sheaths or flowed from under the bust. The stiffened brim shielded the lady’s face from harmful sun rays, because it was considered essential for an upper class lady to have a pale white skin. The crown of this bonnet is lined with stiffened ivory linen and the brim is lined with ivory satin. For more about this gorgeous bonnet, see Vintage Textile :- vintagetextile.com
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1807 Women’s French Coats, or Redingotes, or Pelisses, or Walking Dresses, as worn in the early 1800s, or early Regency years, or in the times of Jane Austen. Fashion plates from the 1807 volumes from the French magazine, Journal des Dames et des Modes or Costume Parisien.
The Journal des dames et des modes was a French fashion magazine published between 1797 and 1839 and was the second oldest fashion magazine published in France, replacing the Cabinet des Modes (1785-1793).
The magazine was the main source for French fashions, both in France and internationally. Pierre de la Mesangere was editor and main journalist for most of the time the magazine was in existence and he published a magazine every five days, which is why there is an abundance of French fashion plates from these years. The magazine had eight pages of text, one or two colored fashionplates, plus poetry, theatre reviews, current social news and fiction. During the Napoleonic wars, everything to do with France was unpopular, especially in Britain, yet French fashions thrived and so did the Journal des Dames et des Modes, despite the numerous other fashion magazines that copied the magazine.
1807 Lady Wearing At-Home Costume, French. Relaxed attire of white, Empire style, high-waisted at-home dress, hat, and shawl. Smelling the flowers. Jane Austen and her family and friends would have worn this style of dress. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Typical outfit worn at home in the morning when at home and to be seen only by family or close friends. A lady might wear this while writing having breakfast, writing letters, or reading. Called by the various names of Undress, to At-Home dress, or Morning dress, it is the most relaxed ensemble a lady will wear all day.
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Fashion Must Haves In Jane Austen’s Times: Reticules, Spencers, Redingotes. History Notes Series Books 3, 4, and 5.
Reticule Or Bag: Purse, often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. Carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. in the place of pockets.
Spencer: Short jacket, cropped at the waist, worn over a dress, or gown. Delicate and regency dresses provided so little protection from the cold, so over garments were essential for warmth, modesty and good health.
Pelisse Or redingote Or Walking Dress: Coat worn over clothing of both sexes for warmth and protection from the elements.