1810 ca. Silk Dress, Probably French. High-waisted, or Empire line, dress with long straight sleeves, back opening, embroidery on neck frill and multiple rows of embroidery on the hem. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. ~ metmuseum.org
1820-1835 ca. Woman’s Underwear Combination, English. Petticoat: 1820-1829 ca. Cotton with double row of piping round hem. Frontless with looped shoulder pieces. Corset: 1835: Cotton reinforced with whalebone and cording, hand-sewn. Shift Or Chemise:1830s Worn under corset. Drawers: Sheer clinging fabrics needed drawers underneath for modesty. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK.
collections.vam.ac.uk.
1809 Blue Redingote, French. Back view of walking coat with military style trim, upstanding collar, white hat, black shoes and a handkerchief. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Redingotes or Pelisses were needed to cover the flimsy dresses made of lightweight fabrics of the Regency years to provide warmth and some protection from windy conditions when gowns might lift and cause modesty issues. Jane Austen and her contemporaries often walked to places and so would have needed the warmth of a Pelisse or coat in the cold British winters.
In Europe, a Redingote was a coat or robe like garment worn both indoors and out, indoors left open to reveal a dress while the outdoor version was made of heavier materials and of darker colors than the type worn indoors. The name comes from the term ‘riding coat.’
1806 Two Ladies In White Walking Dresses, French. Puffed sleeves, extra long gloves, bonnets tied under chins and decorated with flowers, walking boots, green cashmere shawl. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. These fashionable ensembles with a variety of fashionable and practical accessories would have been worn by Jane Austen and her family and friends during the day when out walking in the park or visiting village shops. Hats were a necessity to protect fair skin from the sun and scarfs and shawls added color and warmth to an outfit.
1804 London Hairstyles, Gorgeous Gold Hats. via Fashion Plate via Fashions of London and Paris, Published By Richard Phillips, St. Paul’s Church Yard, London, UK. These styles of hats and hairstyles would have been worn by Jane Austen and her contemporaries as hats were an essential fashion item during the Regency years.
1810 ca. Muslin, or Cotton, Bodiced Petticoat With Sleeves, British.The sort of petticoat Jane Austen wore beneath her dresses, for both modesty and warmth. via Killerton House. National Trust, U.K. nationaltrustcollections.org.uk
In Jane Austen’s years of the early nineteenth century, women often wore light-weight dresses under which was worn a range of underclothing to stop gowns appearing transparent and sticking to a lady’s body. To preserve modesty, underclothing included a chemise next to the skin, then a corset, and then petticoats to give shape to a dress and to keep it away from her body.
1804-1815 ca. Wedding Dress. Silk dress with square bodice and very small bodice, short puffed sleeves, beautiful train decorated in gold. via Palais Galliera, or Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. City of Paris Fashion Museum, formerly Musée Galliera. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
1823 December Red Carriage Costume, English. Gorgeous red dress with waistline a couple of inches below the bust, puffed short sleeves over long straight sleeves, wide white fur hem trim to match the white fur muff, white ruffle at the neck. High bonnet with a feather tied under the chin with a red bow. Fashion plate via John Belle’s ‘La Belle Assemblee’, England.
Definition Redingote Or Pelisse Or Walking Dress Or Carriage Dress Or Coat: French word developed from English words, riding coat. Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. Often left open at the front to show off the dress underneath. Sometimes cut away in front. Originally made with several capes and trimmed with large buttons. French fashion plates call these coats Redingotes and they are designed for women, men and children. English fashion plates call them a Pelisse, a walking dress, Promenade dress, or Carriage dress. books2read.com/suzilovePelisse
From 1700 until the early 1800s, pockets with waist ties were worn by women to keep essential items on their person. Generally of linen or some other cotton fabric, they were often quilted, or embroidered and gifted or handed down to others. In the 18th century, women’s pockets were not sewn into their gowns. Instead they were attached to a tape and tied around the waist as separate garments. Worn under the hoops and petticoats, they were accessed through openings in the gown and petticoat seams. By the early 1800s, round gowns were both flowing and almost transparent so pockets could no longer be worn under dresses, so ridicules, or bags, or reticules were carried instead. Jane Austen and her female friends and family would have worn pockets under their out layers.
From the Curator Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Quilting was a popular form of decoration for a variety of garments including pockets. However, hand-quilting was a time-consuming method of decoration. The increased demand for quilted petticoats, waistcoats and pockets led to the invention of woven quilting.
1700-1725 ca. Pair of Linen Twill Women’s Pockets With Crewel Embroidery and Waist Ties, British. Embroidered in yellow, green and pink worsted thread with chain and stem stitches, design of flower pot with flowering plant, bound with green worsted tape and sewn to linen tape tie. Designs are similar but not identical, suggesting both hand-drawn and possibly work of an amateur. Pockets may have been handed down to another person who found them too small as each pocket has been extended at top by 4 cms. via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK.
collections.vam.ac.uk.
1750-1800 ca. Woman’s Pocket With Waist Ties, New England, America. Linen plain weave, cotton plain weave, wool embroidery. Dimensions 39.5 cm x 27.5 cm. Polychrome crewels on cotton and linen, vine with buds, flowers and leaves and initials M.W. in center. In 18th century, women’s pockets were tied around waist with tape as separate garments, worn under hoops and petticoats, accessed through openings in gown and petticoat seams. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
1805 January Two Ladies In White Paris Dresses, English. Two interesting bodices, long gloves, necklaces, shawl, fan and adorable hats. Fashion Plate via The Lady’s Magazine Or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex, London. These are the types of outfits worn by Jane Austen and contemporaries and were seen in English magazines, where French fashions were obsessively copied despite the two countries being at war for many years.
