In Jane Austen’s years of the early nineteenth century, women often wore light-weight dresses under which was worn a range of underclothing to stop gowns appearing transparent and sticking to a lady’s body. To preserve modesty, underclothing included a chemise next to the skin, then a corset, and then petticoats to give shape to a dress and to keep it away from her body.
‘Omnibuses, under the name of carrosses a cinq sous, were started in Paris in 1662. Seven vehicles to carry eight passengers each, all inside, were built, and on March 18th, 1662, they began running. The first one was timed to start at seven o’clock in the morning, but an hour or two earlier a huge crowd had assembled to witness the inauguration ceremony, which was performed l)y two Commissaires of the Chatelet, attired in their official robes. Accompanying them were four guards of the Grand Prevot, twenty men of the City Archers, and a troop of cavalry. ‘
In 1828, George Shillibeer, a London coach builder, visited Paris where he was impressed by the efficiency of the new horse-drawn bus service. The following year, he started a single horse-drawn omnibus connecting Paddington and Regent’s Park to the City of London. Passengers were picked up and set down anywhere along the route and fares were paid on board, in contrast to short-stage coaches which had to be booked in advance.
This new omnibus was pulled by three horses and carried 22 passengers who sat inside and were protected from the weather. Fares were sixpence and one shilling, less than a hackney cab or short-stage coach, but still too expensive for the lower classes.
1829 July 4th George Shillibeer Omnibus, London, U.K. First Omnibus between Paddington and Bank of England via the New Road, now Marylebone Rd., Somers Town and City Rd. Via Wikimedia Commons.
In 1832, the London City monopoly of hackney carriages was removed, so horse buses expanded and within two years there were 620 licensed horse buses in London. By the Great Exhibition in 1851, London’s increase in visitors meant this number doubled and the number of routes increased to 150. By 1856, several bus operators were taken over by the new London General Omnibus Company until, with 600 omnibuses, they were the largest bus company in the world. In 1833, the first real steam omnibuses, the ‘Era’ and ‘Autopsy’ were invented by Walter Hancock, of Stratford, and started on the London roads. The ‘Era’ was the better omnibus of the two, and the most flattering things were said and predicted of it. Enthusiasts declared that omnibuses of this type would enable passengers to be carried at a cheaper rate and greater speed. The ‘Era’ ran from Paddington to the Bank, the same route as the horse-drawn omnibuses, and carried fourteen passengers, the fare being sixpence all the way. It travelled at the rate of ten miles an hour. Travel on these roads was also dangerous as highwaymen stopped and robbed anyone who came along. Male or female made no difference to highwaymen in Britain, nor to the bushrangers in Australia or the gangs on American roads, as they robbed indiscriminately and often with violence.
By the end of the 18th Century, however, travel as a pleasurable pursuit came into vogue and numerous guides were written for traveling all over the British Isles as well as on the continent. The 1812 ‘Tour Of Dr. Syntax’ was an ironic look at the new obsession of travel and travel guides. Before he set off for the Lake District, Dr. Syntax said to his wife, “You well know what my pen can do, and I’ll employ my pencil too: I’ll ride and write, and sketch and print and thus create a real mint: I’ll prose it here, I’ll verse it there and picturesque it everywhere. I’ll do what all have done before; I think I shall and somewhat more.” Georgian and Regency travelers were envious of aristocrats, even if they were of the nobility themselves, and loved to view all the British Great Houses.
A gentleman and his wife would even drive up to the front door of a mansion house and demand to be given a tour of the house. If they weren’t admitted, they would write in their journals of the inhospitable nature of the people on a particular estate. Thomas Pennant, William Mavor, and others, loved to write about these bad experiences and have them published. Paterson’s British Itinerary, a travel guide had 17 editions between 1785-1832 – it outlined the roads used by the stage and mail coaches, the tolls, the bridges, etc. This new touring craze created an industry of hospitality that encompassed more than simple mail coach trips from place to place, and more than a noble family traveling from their country seat to the Metropolis of London for parliamentary sittings. Inns had to improve the quality of the linens and meals if they wanted to attract the wealthier traveling class. Before that, many travelers carried their own linen, crockery, glasses, and utensils, as they didn’t trust the hygiene or standards of country inns.
Travel became something written about by poets with many sonnets written to the beauty of places like the Lake District in England, or the pyramids in Egypt. Inns became cleaner and more respectable so they could welcome travelers of the upper classes. This also meant that women could travel more as roads were slowly improved from rutted tracks that were only suitable for horse riding to roads that family coaches could travel along, though these roads were still narrow and subject to extremes of weather, such as flooding. The race was on to travel from places like London to Edinburgh in the fastest possible time.
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1802 Full Dress of Blue Court Suit, French. Man’s grand parure, or full dress, with white lace on the tailcoat and ruffles on the shirt, jewels, white stockings, black dress shoes, sword and a bicorn hat under his arm. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien. Typical menswear for court in most parts of Europe in the early 1800s, or Regency Era, or Jane Austen’s times, included a tailcoat, a vest or waistcoat, breeches, stockings, dress shoes, and hat.
1700s Late Gentlemen’s Coats. A fitted coat was an essential part of a gentleman’s wardrobe in the late 1800s and were generally tailored and cut to fit tightly. Therefore, gentlemen needed a valet, or some other helper, to extricate himself and his shoulders from his glove-like coat. Breeches and a waistcoat in the same fabric usually completed the 18th century’s gentleman ensemble. Coats were generally worn long at the back and had elaborate decoration down the front openings, collars, and sleeve cuffs.
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1818 Printed Cotton Gown, American. Brown high-waisted, or Empire line, gown as would have been worn during Jane Austen’s lifetime. Sleeves are puffed at the shoulders with unusual puffs to decorate the long straight sleeves. Hem has multiple rows of ruffles to decorate. via Metropolitan Museum New York City, U.S.A. metmuseum.org
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1806 Short Sleeved White Muslin Dress With Train, French. Bodice and sleeves have ribbon decoration, evening flowered headdress, half parure of necklace and ear bobs, and gorgeous Indian hand loomed green shawl. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
Definition Jewelry – Parure: Matched set of jewelry, including a necklace, bracelet, earrings, pin etc. Half Parure had no headpiece.
Definition Shawls: The shawl started off in India as a fine wool garment for men that could be worn as a scarf, turban or as a mantle: the word comes from the Persian shäl. Originally imported from the East, European Kashmir shawls were made first in Norwich and Edinburgh in Britain in the late 18th century. Shawls were an essential item in the early 1800s to cover the thin gowns women wore. They were made of muslin, gauze, silk, wool, and velvet, though cashmere shawls were the softest and most prized.
1816 October Half-Dress. A gown of lilac sarsnet, cut low round the bust, which is trimmed with pink ribbon, disposed so as to form a wreath; the shape of the back is marked by hands of pink, and a large bow, in the French style, ornaments the middle of it at bottom. The back is full; a plain light front forms the shape in a most becoming manner. Long full sleeve, composed of clear muslin, trimmed at the wrist with a single row of lace, and finished by a pink bow. Fichu to correspond, very full trimmed round the throat with lace. The bottom of the skirt is edged with pink, and trimmed with a single flounce of blond lace, set on very full, and surmounted by a wreath of French roses. Cornette composed of tulle, finished by a quilling of blond round the face, and fastened by a pink bow under the chin; a bow to correspond ornaments it on the forehead, and a bunch of flowers is placed very far back on the head. The style of this cornette, though French, is so simply elegant and becoming, that we have not for some time seen any half-dress cap to equal it. Plain gold ornaments. White kid gloves, and white kid slippers with pink rosettes. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Definition Half Dress: Between undress and full dress, respectable outfit without an excess of formal accessories and might be worn either day or evening. Could include Afternoon Dress, such as Afternoon Walking Dress and even Evening Dress if not a very formal evening occasion, such as a theatre attendance or dinner engagement.
Definition Empire Style: Named after the First Empire in France, by 1800 Empire dresses had a very low décolleté, or neckline and a short narrow backed bodice attached to a separate skirt. Skirts started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. This style of dress is associated with Jane Austen and her contemporaries as a simple cotton high-waisted dress was worn most days and accessorized according to the importance of the occasion.
1816 October Half-Dress. A gown of lilac sarsnet, cut low round the bust, which is trimmed with pink ribbon, disposed so as to form a wreath. Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1812 Tailcoat of Blue Drap, French. White Nankin trousers with ankle openings, knotted white cravat, short hair with sideburns, black shoes, holding a black hat and walking stick. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien.
In the early 1800s, men no longer wore complicated styles and extravagant fabrics. Men’s fashion simplified and became more conservative. A well-cut tailcoat, vest, pantaloons and an immaculate cravat of beautiful white linen in the style of George Bryan, or Beau, Brummell. Clothes were a status symbol and indicated a man’s social position. These clothing items were the sort worn by the Bridgerton family and Jane Austen’s male family and friends.
Definition Drap: French equivalent for the English word cloth or stuff and generally applied to fabrics of wool or silk.
Definition Nankeen Or Nankin: Durable, buff colored cloth, made of Chinese cotton which is naturally brownish yellow. Originally brought from Nanking.
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1805-1815 ca. Bonnet. Olive brown stiffened, peaked brim, and lined with ivory satin to protect pale skin from sun in Bridgerton and Jane Austen style.
Regency bonnets were made in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, and with elaborate decorations. This was a practical way of offsetting the minimalism popular in Regency Era fashions. During the early 1800s, most young ladies, and some older ones, wore white dresses in the relaxed styles of ancient Greece. This neoclassical movement saw women wearing Empire style, or high-waisted, gowns that were either straight sheaths or flowed from under the bust. The stiffened brim shielded the lady’s face from harmful sun rays, because it was considered essential for an upper class lady to have a pale white skin. The crown of this bonnet is lined with stiffened ivory linen and the brim is lined with ivory satin. For more about this gorgeous bonnet, see Vintage Textile :- vintagetextile.com
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1807 Women’s French Coats, or Redingotes, or Pelisses, or Walking Dresses, as worn in the early 1800s, or early Regency years, or in the times of Jane Austen. Fashion plates from the 1807 volumes from the French magazine, Journal des Dames et des Modes or Costume Parisien.
The Journal des dames et des modes was a French fashion magazine published between 1797 and 1839 and was the second oldest fashion magazine published in France, replacing the Cabinet des Modes (1785-1793).
The magazine was the main source for French fashions, both in France and internationally. Pierre de la Mesangere was editor and main journalist for most of the time the magazine was in existence and he published a magazine every five days, which is why there is an abundance of French fashion plates from these years. The magazine had eight pages of text, one or two colored fashionplates, plus poetry, theatre reviews, current social news and fiction. During the Napoleonic wars, everything to do with France was unpopular, especially in Britain, yet French fashions thrived and so did the Journal des Dames et des Modes, despite the numerous other fashion magazines that copied the magazine.
1807 Green Redingote or Pelisse or Walking Dress, British. Green velvet decorated with yellow satin military style yellow shoulder trim, green Capote, or hat, trimmed with yellow satin, and matched with yellow shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1807 Blue Redingote Or Pelisse Or Coat With Yellow Trim, French. Striped short sleeves over straight blue sleeves, yellow bonnet tied under the chin, white paisley shawl. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. 1807 Blue Redingote, French. Blue drap Redingote, or Pelisse, or Walking Dress, decorated with velvet, short pleated sleeves over long straight sleeves, yellow velvet and satin hat with blue contrast, and yellow shoes. Fashion Plate via Journal des Modes et des Dames, or Costume Parisienne. 1807 Blue Redingote, French. Back view of a pleated, blue Merino wool, redingote with a high-waist and gathered short back bodice, worn with a jaunty yellow hat with a matching blue feather. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1807 Peach Redingote, Or Pelisse, Or Walking Dress, French. With white shawl collar and a close fitting hat to match. Fashion Plate via suzilove.com and Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.1807 Golden Yellow Redingote Or Pelisse, French. High collar and frill around the entire hem, short puffed sleeves over long straight sleeves. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Fashion Women 1805-1809 History Notes Book 26 What did Jane Austen and friends wear? https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809