1805 Typical Regency Era, or Early 1800s, Muslin Dress. Long sleeves, square neckline, and decorated with Palm Tree embroidery. via Whitaker Auction whitakerauction.smugmug.com Typical of the Empire dresses worn by Jane Austen and her contemporaries. Square necklines, long sleeves, and skirts that started directly under the bust and flowed into the classical relaxed wide styles of Greece and Rome. These high-waisted dresses were worn most days and cotton, silk or taffeta were the popular fabrics.
Fashion Women 1805-1809 History Notes Book 26 What did Jane Austen and friends wear? https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
1800-1830 ca. Reticule, or Bag, American. Bottom of bag shaped like basket and made of stiff deep cream colored mohair with minute blue figure, two panels of light blue painted silk moiré, upper part of bag of deep cream colored figured silk, blue silk ribbon, drawstring and bows trimming lower part of bag. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.org
Definition Reticule Or Ridicule Or Bag or Purse: Often with a drawstring to pull closed and usually made of cloth or covered cardboard and often decorated with beading or embroidery. A reticule, or purse, or handbag, was usually carried by a woman during the Regency period to carry all their daily necessities. Earlier, women used pockets that tied at the waistline and were hidden in the folds of their skirts. Empire style, or early 1800s, high-waisted dresses made it impossible to either sewn in a pocket or to tie on a pocket. So women began carrying small, decorated bags called Reticules, or ridicules, which generally pulled close at the top with a drawstring.
1800-1830 ca. Reticule, or Bag, American. Bottom of bag shaped like basket and made of stiff deep cream colored mohair with minute blue figure, two panels of light blue painted silk moiré, upper part of bag of deep cream colored figured silk, blue silk ribbon, drawstring and bows trimming lower part of bag. via Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, U.S.A. mfa.orgD2D_RetailerBuyLink_HN_3 http://books2read.com/suziloveReticules
1817 January Carriage Costume, English. Red velvet pelisse trimmed with ermine to match muff, tops of sleeves caught up à la Mancheron with military silk chain work, Russian hussar cap of ermine with gold military chain, Limerick gloves and matching kid half-boots.
The ‘General Observations on Fashion and Dress’ describes this fashion plate as, ‘The truly elegant and costly carriage costume of which we have given so beautiful a specimen in our Plate, while it confers the highest honor on the taste of the inventress, is likely to be a most prevailing out-door covering for the carriage amongst ladies of wealth and fashion, being particularly adapted for the open barouche, as the manner in which it is made, with warm hussar cap of light and valuable fur, shields the fair wearer from all the severity of the pinching frost or cutting north wind.’
The Fashion Plate was invented by Mrs. Bell, a relative of the publisher, John Bell, and most likely also the writer of the general observations. Fashion Plate via John Belle’s La Belle Assemblée or, Bell’s Court and Fashionable Magazine, London.
Definition: Coat or Redingote Or Pelisse: Long fitted outdoor coat worn over other garments for warmth. French word developed from English words, riding coat.
Definition Sleeve à la Mancheron: An ornamented trimming or puff attached to the upper sleeve.
Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1817 November Cambric Muslin Walking Dress, English. As would have been worn by Jane Austen and her female contemporaries when out walking. Row of pointed work forms a narrow pelerine, high on the bosom, and ends in a point in front. The skirt has a deep muslin flounce beneath a row of soft muslin bouffone. Brown Spencer of gros de Naples has figured buttons which are intermixed with an elegant trimming. Sleeves ends are like the hem with a double row of buttons and trimming. The newly fashionable epaulette is edged and finished with buttons on the shoulder. Autumnal bonnet has a large front, low crown, and ties under the chin with a large bow. Swansdown muff, lilac sandals and pale lemon kid gloves finish the ensemble. ‘We have been favored this month with both our dresses by a lady, one of our subscribers, who purchased them, we understand, at Mrs. Bell’s in St. James’s Street.’ Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
1817 November. Walking Dress, English. Brown Spencer over a white Empire style, high-waisted, walking dress with frilled hem, large white muff, brown bonnet with ruffles and ribbon to match. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Art Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1817 June Morning Dress as worn in Bridgerton and Jane Austen’s times in England. A round dress composed of jaconet muslin; the bottom of the skirt is trimmed with an intermixture of tucks and embroidery. The body is perfectly novel, it is a three-quarter height, and displays the whole of the throat and a little of the neck: it is composed of the same material as the dress, and is formed to the shape, in a manner at once singular and becoming, by bands of letting-in lace; it is also profusely ornamented with lace, which is set on very full. Long full sleeve, the fullness confined by a tasteful cuff, which is finished by a lace ruffle. Head-dress the Marlborough cap, composed of white lace, ornamented with full-blown roses and blush colored satin ribbon. For the form of this elegant cap, which is perfectly in the English style, we refer our readers to our print. The hair is parted in front so as to display a little of the forehead, and curled lightly over the temples. Necklace and ear-rings white cornelian mixed with gold. White kid slippers and gloves. We are indebted to the elegant taste of Mrs. Marchant of 40, Gerrard-street, Soho, for both our dresses this month. Fashion Plate via Rudolph Ackermann’s ‘The Repository of Arts’.
Definition Morning or At-Home Dress: Loose and comfortable dress and soft lace cap to be worn at home for reading, painting, sewing or for walking in the garden. To be seen by family, servants and close friends. Not accessorized enough to be out in the wider public, although the pretty pink roses and trim on the cap suggest this outfit may have been worn for receiving visitors at home.
1817 February Pelisse, or Redingote, English. Carriage dress of white poplin with a deep blond flounce. Blue levantine pelisse or walking dress, or Redingote in France, edged with floss silk, blonde lace neck ruff, ermine ruff and a pink shawl. Fashion Plate via John Belle’s La Belle Assemblée or, Bell’s Court and Fashionable Magazine, London. Fashion Women 1815-1819 History Notes Book 28 What did Jane Austen wear? . D2D_HN_28_https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1815-1819
1620-1635 ca. Pin For Fastening Clothing, Made In Gloucestershire, England, U.K. Pins were a necessity for the fastening of clothing and the arrangement of dress accessories in the 16th and 17th centuries. Their importance for women as a personal requirement and expense is reflected in the term pin-money, the sum originally allocated to meet this essential cost. Ordinary people would have a small number of pins, the wealthy thousands.Pins were carefully looked after and sharpened periodically. They were extracted after use so as not to tarnish the fabric and placed in a pincushion.
Places Before the mid-16th century the finest pins were imported from France, but their manufacture in England was encouraged under Henry VIII, and an Act for the True Making of Pynnes was passed in 1543, controlling their quality and price. Gloucestershire and London became the main centres of the pin-making industry.
Materials & Making As the industry developed in the 16th century the major advance in the manufacture of pins came with the use of a steel draw-plate with a graduated series of holes. Wire, which was usually brass, could be drawn through this to any gauge, permitting standardisation of the size of the pins. The heads were made from fine coils of wire that were soldered in place.
Enormous quantities of pins were used for the fastening of clothing. Elizabeth I was supplied with 24,000 ‘pynnes of diverse sorts’ just for her coronation. Pins secured the petticoat in a ruffle above the farthingale (hoops that supported a skirt), and held the curves of the ruff in place around the neck. Several dozen might be used for one ensemble. Such a quantity required large pincushions. These pins were found in written documents that were dated between 1620 and 1635.
HN_1 Fashion Women Late 1700s History Notes Book 1 by Suzi Love.
What was fashionable for women in the late 1700s? Extravagant colors and fabrics and outrageous styles were all seen in these flamboyant fashions.
books2read.com/suziloveFashWomen1700s
1806 Jane Austen Style Short Sleeved White Muslin Dress With Train, French. Bodice and sleeves have ribbon decoration, evening flowered headdress, half parure of necklace and ear bobs, and gorgeous Indian hand loomed green shawl. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Definition Jewelry – Parure: Matched set of jewelry, including a necklace, bracelet, earrings, pin etc. Half Parure had no headpiece.
Definition Shawls: The shawl started off in India as a fine wool garment for men that could be worn as a scarf, turban or as a mantle: the word comes from the Persian shäl. Originally imported from the East, European Kashmir shawls were made first in Norwich and Edinburgh in Britain in the late 18th century. Shawls were an essential item in the early 1800s to cover the thin gowns women wore. They were made of muslin, gauze, silk, wool, and velvet, though cashmere shawls were the softest and most prized.
1805 White Fur Coat, or Redingote, French. Black fur and lavender lattice to decorate, white shawl with paisley patterned ends, lavender hat to match and long white gloves. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien. Jane Austen and her contemporaries would have wore long coats like this one to keep warm when out and about, visiting, shopping etc. The thin muslin dresses worn in the early 1800s were little protection against European winters so coats of some sort were added, plus colorful accessories like this shawl and the hat to add color and another layer of warmth.
Definition Shawls: The shawl started off in India as a fine wool garment for men that could be worn as a scarf, turban or as a mantle: the word comes from the Persian shäl. Originally imported from the East, European Kashmir shawls were made first in Norwich and Edinburgh in Britain in the late 18th century. Shawls were an essential item in the early 1800s to cover the thin gowns women wore. They were made of muslin, gauze, silk, wool, and velvet, though cashmere shawls were the softest and most prized.
Fashion Women 1805-1809 History Notes Book 26 What did Jane Austen and friends wear? This book looks at early 1800s fashions, which were elegant and pretty with high waists and fabrics that were almost transparent. These Empire style gowns, named after Napoleon’s first Empress, became popular throughout Europe, and were then copied around the world. Colorful outwear was added to make an ensemble more attractive and warmer. https://books2read.com/SuziLoveFashionWomen1805-1809
1806 Young French Gentleman. Brown Castorine Coat Over Blue Tailcoat, French. White cashmere breeches, white stockings, yellow gloves, black hat and a cane. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
French fashions and Georgian and Regency Era fashions from Great Britain were copied around the world. This is the normal daily outfit for a gentleman in the early 1800s, or in the times of Jane Austen, for daily city and country life.
Le Beau Monde magazine made suggestions for men’s fashion in November 1806.
“The neckcloth should, by no means, be too greatly puffed out; but should be neatly united in front with a large unspread bow. Dark bottle green coats will be as generally worn this season, as those of brown colours were last winter.
“For morning dress frock coats will be prevalent: those of an olive hue, with a black velvet collar, will be the most universal. Fancied waistcoats of all manufactures may be worn with this kind of coat; but fashion ordains the invariable use of dark blue or light-coloured kerseymere pantaloons, and half-boots. The boots must rise somewhat higher in the leg than has recently been the custom, and the toes of them should be formed into a perfect semi-cirlce.
“Full dress coats will likewise be made of dark green cloth, double-breasted, and will possess the similar ornament of a black velvet collar. Single-breasted white waistcoats, and light-coloured kerseymere breeches will be in much estimation. Either flesh-coloured or now-white silk stockings fashion now considered as elegant.
“The hair, for morning dress, should be cut à la Titus; for full dress, it should be powdered. Buckles for the shoes are employed in full dress; but ribbands are allowed in afternoon or dinner dress.”
1800s French Palais Royal Sewing Box and Twelve Mother of Pearl Enamel Tools. This is the style of sewing box Jane Austen and her family would have used in the early 1800s, or Regency years. via via suzilove.com and 1st Dibs Auctions 1stdibs.com
Definition: Palais Royal: Name of an area around the Royal Palace in Paris, France, that specialized in making small and exquisite works of art during the 18th and 19th centuries. Palais Royal sewing tools were elaborate and usually feature mother-of-pearl, often intricately carved or engraved. During the 19th century, workboxes were often works of art with engravings, carvings, mother-of-pearl, and elaborate gilt metal mounts. Most popular were scissors with steel blades and gilt mounts, thimbles and needle cases which were often shaped like animals or other natural forms. Workmanship was exceptional and the tools almost too fragile to use.
1800s French Palais Royal Sewing Box and Twelve Mother of Pearl Enamel Tools. via via suzilove.com and 1st Dibs Auctions 1stdibs.comHN_11_D2D_Craftsmen created containers of precious metals, leather, silks, and decorated them with jewels to make exquisite and expensive items as well as practical carrying cases. books2read.com/suziloveBoxesCases
