1899-1903 ca. Spring Flowers Imperial Surprise Faberge Easter Egg. Gold, platinum diamonds, bowenite, white agate, demantoid, garnets, and enamel. By Mikhail Perhkin. Via Viktor Vekselberg Collection in Russia. Faberge Easter Egg, Russia. Faberge Easter Egg, Russia.
1757-1758 ca. Egg Shaped Toilet Case With Clock. By Master Francois Beeckaert, Paris, France. Gold, diamonds, silver, enamel. via Hermitage Museum, Russia.
1811-1820 Regency Era Overview. The British Regency was the period from 1811-1820. King George III was deemed mad and unfit to rule so his son became his proxy, the Prince Regent, or Prinny to his close friends. This was the era during which Jane Austen wrote her books. Books that are still read and discussed today.
As a period in Britain’s official history, the Regency lasted less than ten years, although scholars apply the term Regency to a much longer period. It began in 1811, when George Ill was declared mad and the Prince of Wales was appointed Regent. It ended in 1820 when the King finally died and the Regent was crowned George IV. However, the Regency was a period in Britain’s history that had an effect on the social and cultural life for four decades, from the start of the French Revolution in 1789 to the passing of Britain’s Great Reform Act in 1832.
The decision to make George IV the Regent took a lot of political debate. After nearly two and a half months of political wrangling, the British government agreed to grant the title of Prince Regent on George. The Act of Parliament was finally passed by a commission in the House of Lords on February 5th 1811 and the Prince was formally sworn in as Regent at Carlton House the next day. He continued to rule as Regent until 1820 when, on his father’s death, he assumed the title George IV and reigned until his own death in 1830.
During the Regency, royalty and upper class ladies and lords, or the Beau Monde, lived elegant and extravagant lives that also allowed excesses and depravity. Britain was united behind exceptional heroes in long wars against France, but internally divided by class distinction and political agitation. The foundations of a modem industrial nation were laid by engineers, inventors and scientists. while Romantic poets and visionary artists dreamt of escape to earlier times and more ideal worlds. From: Queen’s Gallery, London, U.K.
While writing about perfumes and oils, a favourite subject of mine, for my book, Scenting Scandal, I sniffed out some fascinating snippets on the history of early perfume suppliers in London. I have a nose for these things ( He He!) as in my past life I also blended oils and perfumes. One name stood out in historic London- Juan Floris.
He opened his shop at 89 Jerym St. in the elegant quarter of St. James’ London soon after his arrival from the Mediterranean in 1730. After starting as a barber and comb-maker, he missed the aromas of his Mediterranean youth and began blending oils, essences and fixatives, from Europe, into the first Floris fragrances.
‘ Purveyors of The Finest Perfumes & Toiletries to the Court of St James’ Since the Year 1730.’
In the same manner that Fortnum & Mason held Royal Warrants to supply groceries to the Royals, Floris held Royal Warrants to supply perfumes, shaving items and toiletries.
The first Royal Warrant granted to J.Floris Ltd was in 1820 as ‘Smooth Pointed Comb-makers’ to the then newly appointed King George IV. Then, the social elite followed the court until the Floris ledgers held accounts for an array of public figures, including practically every European Royal. Combs, tooth brushes and mouth washes were greatly valued by the company’s elite clientele.
These days, and at the same premises, Floris still supplies royalty and world celebrities with an array of fragrances and bathroom accessories.
The Floris archives hold letters from famous customers detailing their preferences and their thanks, including the following examples:
Winston Churchill, according to records held by Floris, purchased Special No. 127 Eau de Toilette and Stephanotis in 1934.
Marilyn Monroe was also known to have purchased from Floris on at least one occasion, having made a purchase of Rose Geranium while staying at the Beverly Hills Hotel, California in 1959.
Florence Nightingale wrote a 25 July 1863 letter thanking Mr Floris for his ‘sweet-smelling nosegay’.
Mary Shelley, whilst abroad, sent friends instructions to purchase her favourite combs and toothbrushes from Floris.
Beau Brummell in the early 19th century would discuss his current fragrances at length with Mr Floris.
Between 1820 and 1840 textile printers began to produce designs that were based on the woven silk dress fabrics of the 1750’s. Designs showing curving trails of lace or ribbons between bouquets of flowers became as popular in the 1830s as they had been in the 18th century.
Roller Printed Cotton.
The pattern on printed cotton was made with an engraved metal roller and additional colors were built up by wooden surface roller. Roller printing on textiles was introduced in the late 18th century and at first used mainly for small-patterned dress fabrics. By the 1830s, roller printing was highly mechanized process and had largely replaced block printing for fashionable furnishings.
Materials and Making The development of roller printing coincided with a radical transformation in the dyestuffs available for printing on cotton. Until the beginning of the 19th century printing had been based on the use of vegetable dyes. In Britain, France and Germany new chemical processes were developed and mineral colors produced that transformed the palette of colors available to the printer and made combinations such as shades of pink and orange possible.
Design and Designing The false trails of lace and bouquets of flowers in the fabric are inspired by the patterns of woven silks from nearly a century earlier. Changing taste made this design suitable for furnishing a room in the 1830s, while the 18th-century silk that was its inspiration would have been intended for a woman’s gown.
Time The styles considered fashionable in 1830s furnishings were widely diverse. Among the more recognisable historical references were Rococo, Elizabethan and Gothic. A design such as this seems to be relying on novelty of effect for its success.
1911 Orange Tree, or, Bay Tree Faberge Imperial Easter Egg. Gift to Maria from her son. Automaton nightingale emerges and sings when the correct orange is turned. Gold, jade, diamonds, vitrines, amethysts, rubies, pearls, agates, and bird has feathers. Faberge Easter Egg, Russia.
The name Faberge is associated with the Russian Imperial family for whom most of the world’s most famous eggs were created. In 1870, Faberge inherited his father’s jewelry business and quickly became known for his brilliant designs. A display of his work and the gold medal he was awarded in Moscow’s Pan-Russian Exhibition of 1882 brought him to the attention of the Russian nobility.In 1885, Faberge was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III of Russia to create an Easter egg for his wife, the Empress Maria Fedorovna. This became known as The Hen Egg, the first Imperial Faberge Egg, and is made of gold. The Empress was so happy with the gift that Alexander appointed Fabergé a ‘Goldsmith by Special Appointment to the Imperial Crown’ and the following year commissioned another egg. From then on, Faberge was given complete freedom with future Imperial designs which become even more elaborate every year. A famous Fabergé egg is one of sixty eight jeweled eggs made by Fabergé and his assistants for the Russian Tzars and private collectors between 1885 and 1917.After the Russian Revolution, the House of Faberge was nationalized by the Bolsheviks and the Faberge family fled to Switzerland where Peter Carl Faberge died in 1920. Several of the Faberge Imperial eggs are still missing.
The name Faberge is associated with the Russian Imperial family for whom most of the world’s most famous eggs were created. In 1870, Faberge inherited his father’s jewelry business and quickly became known for his brilliant designs. A display of his work and the gold medal he was awarded in Moscow’s Pan-Russian Exhibition of 1882 brought him to the attention of the Russian nobility.
In 1885, Faberge was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III of Russia to create an Easter egg for his wife, the Empress Maria Fedorovna. This became known as The Hen Egg, the first Imperial Faberge Egg, and is made of gold. The Empress was so happy with the gift that Alexander appointed Fabergé a ‘Goldsmith by Special Appointment to the Imperial Crown’ and the following year commissioned another egg. From then on, Faberge was given complete freedom with future Imperial designs which become even more elaborate every year. A famous Fabergé egg is one of sixty eight jeweled eggs made by Fabergé and his assistants for the Russian Tzars and private collectors between 1885 and 1917.
After the Russian Revolution, the House of Faberge was nationalized by the Bolsheviks and the Faberge family fled to Switzerland where Peter Carl Faberge died in 1920. Several of the Faberge Imperial eggs are still missing.
1900 Cockerel Faberge Easter Egg, or, Cuckoo Clock Egg was given by Tsar Nicholas II to Empress Maria Feodoronova. Mechanism on top rear enables its bird to come out and move. The egg is part of the Viktor Vekselberg Collection, owned by The Link of Times Foundation, and housed in the Fabergé Museum in Saint Petersburg, Russia. Faberge Easter Egg, Russia.
1897 The Imperial Coronation Egg With A Surprise.Made By Mikhail Pushkin. Presented by Emperor Nicholas II to his wife Empress Alexandra Feodorovna as memento of entry to Moscow on May 26th, the day of the Coronation, in Uspensky Cathedral. Gold embellished with translucent yellow guilloché enamel.
Many Russian Easters were celebrated with Imperial monogramed eggs as the royals were very involved with both the religious celebrations of Easter and the family traditions. Fabergé eggs were jeweled eggs created by Peter Carl Fabergé and his company in Russia from 1885 to 1917. The most famous of the eggs are the ones made for the Russian Tsars, Alexander III and Nicholas II, as Easter gifts for their wives and mothers, often called the ‘Imperial’ Fabergé eggs. The House of Fabergé made about 50 eggs and 43 have survived. Another two were planned for Easter 1918, but because of the Russian Revolution were not delivered. After the Revolution, the Fabergé family left Russia and the Fabergé trademark has been sold several times since then. Several companies have sold Easter egg merchandise using the Fabergé name. The trademark is now owned by Fabergé Limited, which makes egg-themed jewelry.
1795-1812 ca. Lord Nelson’s Vice-Admiral Undress Coat. Blue cloth tail coat, double breasted, nine gilt buttons on each lapel., two rows gold lace each sleeve with three buttons between, three buttons below each pocket flap, two buttons on skirt pleats, narrow band of wool cloth and two eyelet holes on shoulders to attach epaulettes, fastened edge to edge with three hooks and eyes, four embroidered stars of Nelson’s orders on left, Order of the Bath, Order of St Ferdinand Merit, Order of Crescent, Order of San Joachim. This is Nelson’s Trafalgar Coat worn by Nelson (1758-1805) at Battle of Trafalgar with bullet hole on left shoulder, close to epaulette. Damage to epaulette and blood stains on tails and left sleeve. National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, U.K. www.rmg.co.uk
For most of Jane Austen’s life, Britain was involved in conflicts and wars across the world. The Napoleonic Wars only ended in 1815, just two and a half years before Austen died. During her childhood, Britain was fighting the American Revolutionary War and when she was 14 years old, the French Revolution upset traditional roles of the monarchy, aristocracy and landed gentry in Britain, France and many other European countries.
1806 Silver and silver-gilt vinaigrette, Birmingham, England. Commemorating the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Rectangular with a hinged lid and a suspension loop. Gilded, pierced inner cover depicts HMS ‘Victory’ in relief inscribed ‘VICTORY’, ‘TRAFALGAR OCT 21 1805’. Via National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, U.K.
Vinaigrettes were used from the late 18th century through the 19th Century to revive a person who had fainted, having the vapors, or to mask unsanitary odors. Small containers, often a silver hinged box, held a tiny sponge dipped in an aromatic substance which had been dissolved in vinegar. The sponge was held beneath a grill or perforated cover so, by a flick of the fingers, the container was opened and the restorative substance held directly beneath a person’s nose. Jane Austen and her family and friends would have been very familiar with the use of vinaigrettes because Regency Era ladies were noted for having the vapors or fainting in hot ballrooms or dramatic situations. Ladies in the Romantic and Victorian Eras would have used them when tightly laced corsets became popular and ladies fainted because they were unable to draw in enough oxygen.
Both men and women used vinaigrettes in the late 1700s when people encountered foul aromas on a daily basis, but by the 1820s vinaigrettes were mainly used by women.These tiny containers were carried in a pocket, a reticule or bag, or suspended from the waist by chains as part of a chatelaine. Their sterling silver interiors were gilded to prevent discoloration from the acetic acid. Birmingham produced 90% of England’s silver vinaigrettes. As gold wasn’t affected by vinegar, craftsmen created some elaborate and decorative boxes on the container’s exteriors.