1760-1800 ca. Pink Enamel and Copper Necessaire Or Etui, Staffordshire, England. Dimensions:Â 3 3/4 x 1 5/8 in. (9.5 x 4.1 cm) Credit: Pierpont Morgan, 1917 via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. metmuseum.org
Definition Necessaire Or Etui: Small toiletry, writing, or sewing containers were called Necessaire or Etui: Tiny boxes or containers were carried in large castles or sprawling manor houses so a lady or gentleman had their essentials with them all day. They were also important when traveling by coach, trains, or on ships where space was always limited. A necessaire or Etui was easily carried in a bag, reticule, or pocket so essentials were on hand for personal grooming, to repair a ripped hem, replace a button, to embroider, or to write a note or letter. Â
1715 ca. Rectangular Envelope Style Bag, French. Polychrome opaque and translucent glass beads strung with linen thread, held together by interlocking looping stitches (sablé). Design on white ground: woman playing table organ, woman seated, boy and girl flanking, urn with flowers right, two insects and curtain above (obv.); sun and phoenix of Louis XIV, ribbon above inscribed IE VIS SANS MOURIR, inscribed at bottom and right SI IE MEURS CE NEST QUE POVR REVIVRE (rev.); vegetative scene (flap). Gilt-galloon binding. Salmon figured silk lining and side panels. Cardboard foundation. via Los Angeles County Museum of Art, California, USA. collections.lacma.org
There has been some discussion on the names for Corset Makers. I’ve seen lots of names, including Stay Maker, Stay Manufacturer, Corset Maker, Body Tailor and Milliner. It was mainly men who were Stay Makers, but there were also some women who included stay making with their millinery.
Corsets Overview History Notes Nonfiction Book 14. This book shows how body wraps, stays, and corsets were worn to create a variety of fashionable silhouettes through past centuries. Corsets flattened breasts and accentuated rounded hips or pushed up breasts and showed off the bust line depending on the fashions of the time and the desired silhouette. Includes corsets through the Georgian, Regency, Victorian and Edwardian Eras and Jane Austen’s lifetime. Overview of corsets through history, including the Georgian, Regency, Victorian and Edwardian Eras and Jane Austen’s lifetime.
1795-1805 ca. Green Silk and Metal Vest, Or Waistcoat, Probably French. The style of waistcoat worn by men in Jane Austen’s times. Interesting cross-over front and tasteful embroidery, standing collar, back has ties to adjust the fit. via Metropolitan Museum, N.Y.C., U.S.A. metmuseum.org
1725-1730 ca. Gold Double-Opening Snuffbox, France. Two tortoiseshell pique panels and two miniatures inside, of Louis XV of France and his wife Marie Leczinska. Made by Jean Baptiste Massé, painter.
Varicolored gold seascape of dolphin and ship with beach littered with shells and rocks, plus ruins, birds,
and an island. Inside the box are miniature portraits of Louis XV of France and his wife Marie Leczinska. It has been suggested that the box commemorates the birth of the ‘dauphin’ Louis in 1729, the royal couple’s fourth child, and first son, heir to the throne. A few elements contradict this suggestion: the dolphin does not bear any regal symbol such as a crown, the marks that date the box indicate that it was initiated before the birth of Louis, when the arrival of a son was unknown.
It is most probable that these delicate panels, together with the miniature of Louis XV, date from 1725-1730 and have been associated later into this gold snuffbox, and a later miniature of Queen Marie Leczinska.The miniature of the king may have been painted by Jean-Baptiste Mass̩ Рhe is recorded as supplying miniatures of the king for boxes intended as diplomatic gifts from 1720-26-, or by his lesser known contemporary Jean-Baptiste Ducanel.
The lid is hinged to reveal a miniature, under glass, of Marie Leczinska, queen of France, probably 19th century or heavily restored, wearing a cloak of blue embroidered with gold fleurs-de-lis and lined with ermine overa lace-trimmed dress of red embroidered with gold. In the base is a panel of tortoiseshell pique with a cornucopia of small shells, also hinged to reveal a contemporary miniature of Louis XV of France in armour, wearing a whitestock and the sash of the Order of the Holy Ghost. The gold box, probably early 19th century or later, has plain walls, reeded borders, and a double thumbpiece.
Sir Arthur Gilbert and his wife Rosalinde formed one of the world’s great decorative art collections, including silver, mosaics, enamelled portrait miniatures and gold boxes. Arthur Gilbert donated his extraordinary collection to Britain in 1996.
via Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK. collections.vam.ac.uk.
Snuff Boxes: Decorative boxes of all types were prized, especially in the 18th Century when everything decorative and extravagant was in vogue and taking a pinch of snuff was fashionable. Snuff is made from ground or pulverized tobacco leaves, flavorings added, and then a pinch of snuff is placed on the back of the hand and sniffed.
1750 Multicolor Silk Stays, Or Corset, French. Back Lacing, hip phalanges, or fingers, triangular shaped front. Via Fashion Museum NYC fashion museum.fitnyc.edu
Corsets originated in the beginning of the 16th century, when aristocratic Spanish women first adopted “whalebone bodies.” Stays (later known as corsets) rapidly became fashionable throughout Europe. In 1588, the French essayist Michel de Montaigne wrote, “To get a slim body, Spanish style, what torture do women not endure, so tightly tied and bound . . . ” Although doctors and moralists remonstrated, women continued to wear some form of corset until the middle of the 20th century, because corsetry was associated with feminine beauty, aristocratic display, and self-discipline.
1780 Watch on a Chatelaine, Germany. Silver Repousse Verge With four chain chatelaine. via Heritage Auction H.A.com.
Definition Chatelaine: The word Chatelaine is French and means the keeper of the keys. Chatelaine” derives from the Latin word for castle. In Medieval times, the chatelaine was in charge of the day-to-day running of the castle. What did a chatelaine do? Most important task was keeper of the keys. Also ordered supplies, did bookkeeping, supervised servants, taught castle children, and organized guests. books2read.com/SuziLoveChatelaines
What were chatelaines used for?
1798 Woman’s Light Blue Douillette, Or Housecoat, French. Trimmed with pink velvet, pink fan, black slave sandals, apricot hat with black trim. Fashion Plate via Journal des Dames et des Modes, or Costume Parisien.
Description Douillette: A coat or housecoat, sometimes quilted, worn in France.
1760 ca. Traveling Ink Set. Rectangular Shagreen case with hinged cover which opens to reveal an unmarked silver mounted inkwell and sander, a pen, and a desk seal.
Definition Shagreen: Type of rough untanned skin, sometimes made from a donkey or a horse, but often from a shark or a stingray.
